SUMMARYProduced by the Panaga Natural History Society
SUMMARY1. Bukit Teraja to Rampayoh waterfall
A more serious day walk in the Labi area. This is probably one of the easiest ways of experiencing the jungle in Brunei without moving too far from civilisation.
2. Marudi Log walk
These notes are intended to assist anyone making the Labi/Marudi/Asam Paya/Rasau round trip for the first time. They not only contain details of the walk but also information on transport and accommodation booking.
3. Ulu Belait to Mulu
A three day journey from Kg Sungai Mau on the Labi Road to Mulu National Park. It comprises a river journey to the Ingai Hot Springs, on a tributary of the Belait, followed by a two day walk through virgin rain forest in the far south of Brunei to cross the border escarpment into Sarawak. This was a completely self contained expedition.
4. Ascent of Gunung Mulu
A tough three to four day trek via the tourist trail. The round trip is some 45 kilometres with a total ascent of 2500 meters. Overnight accommodation is in simple wooden shelters.
5. The Kubaan Trail
Logging roads now link Limbang with one of the traditional overland trading routes into the isolated Kelabit Highlands and Bario. These notes provide detailed directions along the logging roads and then describe the 22 kilometre walk, following Sungai Kubaan and it's tributaries, into Bario. The walk is strenuous but, with an early start, may just be completed in a single long day. Alternatively, camp out and spend more time enjoying the unspoilt jungle along this beautiful isolated river valley.
6. Bario-Murud-Bakelalan
One of the best jungle trekking tours in the Kelabit Highlands. From Bareo up to Mount Murud and on towards Bakelalan. Gunung Murud, 2,423 m, the highest mountain in Sarawak.. The summit ridge is superficially similar to that of other high Borneo mountains such as Trusmadi and Mulu. However, on Murud the mountain flora is particularly impressive. There is a tremendous profusion of orchids, pitcher plants, mosses and other plants. This display is at a peak during the orchid flowering season around September.
7. Ascent of Batu Lawi
Batu Lawi is one of the most distinctive mountains in Borneo. For centuries it has been of religious significance to the Kelabit people and, more recently, it became the site of Tom Harrisson's memorial to those lost in Borneo during the Second World War. The ascent from Bario involves a 45km, four day, round trip through pristine jungle, sleeping in huts or shelters.
8. Ascent of Gunung Trusmadi
A two day round trip to climb Sabah, and Malaysia's, second highest peak. Logging road access now makes this a relatively easy trek with a total distance of only some twelve kilometres walking and an ascent of just over 1000 meters. The overnight camp on the summit offers spectacular dusk and dawn views of Kinabalu. Our group was guided by a KK travel agency, however, a subsequent party has used these notes to locate porters and make an independent trip at a fraction of the cost.
9. Kinabalu Summit Trail
Some basic information for those making the popular weekend trip to climb Gunung Kinabalu via the Tourist Trail.
10. Jungle Driving
Logging in the interior of Sarawak has opened up vast areas for four wheel driving expeditions. These notes give general advice on off road driving and contain detailed directions for over 1000 kilometres of trips, including Limbang to Mulu and Miri to Ulu Baram and the Dulit Mountains.
INTRODUCTION & ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSThe first trail notes were written following the walk from Ulu Belait to Mulu. This was, to our knowledge, the first time that anyone had made such a trip and we wanted to make a record so that we or others could repeat the journey at a later date. A few months after this, a group of us were climbing Gunung Mulu when the need trail notes, even for this established tourist route, became apparent. We had no idea of the distance between camps or the type of terrain ahead. Our guides and porters (obviously hoping for an earlier return home) almost persuaded one of our party to turn back when the most difficult part of the ascent had been completed and two people did not even attempt the climb to the summit the following day. They were misled by incorrect distance markers into believing that a six kilometre hike lay ahead whilst the remainder of us completed this last scramble in an hour and a half.
Following the two Mulu trips, notes were written for all the jungle expeditions to help as many people as possible enjoy the fantastic scenery that still exits in this part of Borneo. We now have a unique opportunity to experience the jungle while road and air access to the interior is improving but before large scale tourism or industrial development change the character of the land and it's people. A flight over the jungle can, however, be very depressing as it highlights that only a few unspoilt areas remain. A combination of greedy logging companies and ill-conceived government projects is putting increasing pressure on areas that have supported wildlife and native peoples for thousands of years. It will only be by pressure from people who have experienced the beauty of the interior, and who therefore know what is at stake, that improvements may be made.
Whilst many of the notes have been used and validated on subsequent trips several have not. Jungle trails and logging roads frequently change and advice should always be sought from local people or those who have made the journeys most recently. Please help us to keep these notes up to date by passing any corrections or suggestions for improvements to the Panaga Natural History Society who will take care of any amendments here in Brunei. I would also be grateful to hear any feedback via Shell international E mail (I will be based in Oman with effect from March 1996).
I am very grateful to all those who have read draft copies of theses trail notes and provided valuable input. These include Seamus Breeze and Steve & Jackie Allinson who accompanied me on many of the trips. A special mention should also be given to Wouter van den Brink for his help with the Jungle Driving section. It was Wouter who introduced me to off road driving and took the first pace notes for the logging roads South of Limbang that now lead to Mulu and the Kubaan trail. Finally a huge thank you to Nick Kirby who has spent many evenings and weekends preparing a set of very professional maps and, together with Jack Verouden, gave lots of advice when Edwin Punselie and I were planning the walk to Mulu.
Graham Henley, February 1996
This is a first version of "jungle trips in and around Brunei". The PNHS has taken Graham Henley notes as a basework and is adjusting and adding information as things change with time and as more information becomes available. Additional material has been written by Peter Thomas, Julian. Masters, Samson Palabalaba, Jacqueline Henrot, and Peter Engbers. The A4 Maps in this booklet are adapted by Nick Kirby from his original A3 colour maps. Please help us to make these notes more complete and to keep these notes up to date by passing any additions or corrections to the Panaga Natural History Society.
Note that most of these trips are more serious and require serious preparation and knowledge of orientation and jungle survival, certainly when done without local guides. A few of the trips require the use of local guides as it is either obligatory (Mulu, Kinabalu) or as it would be very difficult to find your own way (Batu Lawi, Murud).We hope that you will have a lot of exciting time exploring the remaining jungle in and around Brunei.
Peter Engbers & Hans Dols, 1997.
1. Bukit Teraja to Rampayoh waterfall
GeneralA more serious day walk in the Labi area. This is probably one of the easiest ways of experiencing the jungle in Brunei without moving too far from civilisation. It starts with the normal Bukit Teraja walk. From the top, a small path follows the principal ridge system with nice views in places and interesting vegetation leading finally to the Rampayoh waterfalls. It is generally easy walking which lasts for several hours. Note, however, that this stretch of the walk does require some more serious preparation and knowledge of orientation. There is no route marking nor are the there always obvious paths. There are some side paths which lead deep into the Belait basin jungle. A proper choice of path is hence crucial. Some Panaga parties are known to have been lost there until deep in the night by taking one wrong turn! The final part (after a refreshing dip in Sungai Rampayoh) is from the Rampayoh waterfall back to the Labi road.
Route description Road -> Bukit Teraja -> Sungai Rampayoh -> road took 8 hours at an easy pace including stops, lunch etc.. We skipped the 2 x 20 minutes diversion to the falls at Rampayoh, and headed for home instead.
1. Walk up Bukit Teraja 1367ft. The walk starts 6 km along the unsealed section of the Labi road and is clearly marked by an official metal sign on the left (east) side of the road. The path rises steeply through primary rain forest, with steps cut in the slope in places, flattening out a little after 20 minutes. The path breasts a narrow ridge after 40 minutes - turn right, and descend into an open clearing where some of the best views are to be had. Just beyond the far end of the clearing there is a wooden shelter with roof, tables, seats and graffiti. The path continues upward from this, to the summit at map reference 918752, easily reached within 2 hours. [See Brunei Darussalam, A Guide, page 118.]
2. Follow the principal ridge system (nice views in places, generally easy walking), prior to a rapid but easy descent to Sungai Rampayoh. Nearly all ridges have "paths", perhaps frequented by animals if not humans. With careful use of map and compass, you should always know where you are. Track your progress by noting each "peak" along the ridge system (if you can see a high on the map, then you will not miss it in reality), checking by compass the orientation of the ridges in between. Often these ridges are steep-sided. Despite the jungle cover, the orientation of the ridge is rarely, if ever, in doubt. A useful general remark to make is that if in doubt while following the ridge sections after leaving Bukit Teraja, keep left - but don't leave the ridge.
a) Approx NE along the ridge, carry on past the point you arrived at on the way up, to a helicopter clearing at 923758. There is a small army camp here, usually unoccupied.
b) Approx NE to the saddle at 933765, then to another helicopter clearing on a "peak" at 935768.
c) Leave this clearing on its far right corner (from your entry point) and arrive on the next "peak" 936772. A good path continues down off its NW corner.
[It's possible using good judgement, about 50 metres back from steep descent of the good path, to find a poorer path heading down to NE. This is the direct route via lower ridges to Rampayoh Falls at 963789. See below for suggested route from main waterfall to Bukit Teraja.]
d) Ridge to NNW, turns and gently descends to NE. It takes perhaps longer than you think to reach "peak" at 942784.
e) Keep left and note the ridge very soon turning to NW, and then again turning round to NE, to reach the "peak" at 941788.
f) Keep following the ridge gently downwards in NE direction, through a section where the path is hard to find or non-existent. Keep going to NE on the highest ground. The ridge and path become well defined again, and the single contour on the map at 948793 is actually an unmistakable "peak". It has a nice little (natural) clearing at its top, with paths descending to both NE and approx SE.
g) Take the path descending to SE, which after some distance (and descent) veers to the E. It continues its descent to the well-worn Sungai Rampayoh path at 955789 where that path crosses a small tributary stream by a "bridge" consisting of log and wooden handrail.
3. EITHER turn right crossing the bridge and follow the main Sungai Rampayoh path upstream, reaching the Gurkha camp and main waterfall in approx 15-20 minutes. Falls at 963789 at a bend in the river.
OR turn left at the bridge (i.e. don't cross it) to follow the main Sungai Rampayoh path downstream to the road (1.5 hours). After 45 minutes you come to a delightful small waterfall next to the path. You arrive on the road at approx 943817, i.e. just a few hundred metres from the end of the sealed Labi road.
The waterfall is linked to the main ridge system by a lower ridge system leading direct from falls to peak at 936772 (see 2c above).
1. Go to Rampayoh waterfall.
[Note on the Rampayoh waterfalls walk]
This is a 10km hike from approx 943817 on the Labi road - but note the sign marking the start is missing. All that remains is a white post, shortly after a driveway on the left (east) side of the road. The path heads through trees and is very soon obvious, running approx ESE, just above the Rampayoh river. It then heads upstream with small bridges over tributaries, eventually arriving at the Gurkha camp. The main waterfall is one minute's walk beyond the camp. See Brunei Darussalam, A Guide, page 116.]
2. Up the ridge SW to a tree with Leech Memorial plaque (after 20 minutes).
3. More or less SW via 950782, 948778 and 940775 to "peak" at 936772. Here you join the main ridge system with its relatively good paths (see 2c above). Turn left (south) and follow description above in reverse to reach Bukit Teraja. Total time 6-7 HOURS.
2. The Marudi Log WalkA very pleasant and easy weekend round trip through varied terrain between Labi, Marudi, Asam Paya and Rasau. The first day comprises of several hours walking on slippery logs through beautiful swamp forest. A lot of fun seeing your mates slipping of and falling in the wet swamp. Recommended! But note the "health warning".
GeneralThis is a beautiful and relatively easy walk which allows an overnight stay in Marudi - an old colonial trading post on the Baram river, Sarawak, which is not yet accessible by road. The first day comprises a six hour walk from Labi through the full spectrum of lowland jungle from primary rainforest, swamp, secondary jungle and finally long houses and rice padi fields in Sarawak.
After a night in Marudi, the usual return journey is by express boat to the Asam Paya long house where an old smugglers trail leads through the jungle and emerges about 3 km from the bridge over the Belait, on the new Rasau road.
Route DescriptionLabi to Marudi
(Italic text indicate updated text by recent walking parties)
The walk begins from Rumah (long house) Panjang Teraja at the very end of the Labi road. Most people hire a Jasra minibus for the journey from Kuala Belait (approximately B$ 100) which takes about two hours.
On the way down Labi road it is important to collect bamboo or other wooden poles (at least two meters long, try and keep the pole light) which you will need to steady yourself on the slippery logs through the swamp. Most of the suitable poles have already been collected from the start of the walk so begin searching in advance. Note that freshly cut bamboo has sharp hairs around each joint which can easily penetrate the skin and cause irritation - take some gloves or clean up the bamboo after it has been cut.
Cross the small stream at the end of the Labi road to begin the walk (it is usually too wide to jump but don't bother searching for a crossing point as your feet will soon be wet in the swamp!). There is currently a tree lying over the stream, so you can keep your feet dry at this point. It makes for an interesting start to the walk and is worth trying to go over that way. Once you have crossed on the tree, turn left and head up to the ridge. You will not miss the start of the trail even though Graham reckons:- The start of the trail on the opposite bank is quite obscure and begins just to the left of a large tree. Within a few meters the path opens out and is well trodden and distinct - if you are on a narrow trail or pushing through jungle you are probably wrong and should retrace your steps.
The path follows ridges through primary rain forest for about 20 minutes before descending to the log walk at the start of the swamp.
Local people have felled trees and placed a good amount of cut timber the build the path which essentially links two long houses on either side of the Brunei Sarawak border. Depending on recent rainfall, these logs may be either completely dry or in some places submerged under several inches (sometimes feet!) of water. This is where your pole comes in useful to probe in the water for solid footing - especially when the water has been disturbed by the person in front and the logs are not visible.
After about one hour on the logs you reach the first ridge. This marks only the half way point in the swamp but the end of the really wet section. It is a good resting point and there is often evidence of places where local people have made camp (this is probably a popular hunting area).
The continuation of the path is very clear, descending back into the swamp and progressing for about a further hour, over three more ridges, until it emerges at a wide stream (Sungai Ridan). The third ridge marks the Brunei/Sarawak border and evidence of logging soon becomes visible such as the more open, secondary jungle and the several old logging railways which cross the path (No logging roads seem to have been built in the area, probably because it is too swampy. Logs would have been taken to the Baram via a rough narrow gauge railway. When logging in the area has been completed the metal rails are collected and re used leaving only the sleepers behind).
The stream marks the end of the difficult walking as the path on the other side, which continues to Marudi, can be negotiated by moped. Depending on the water level, the stream may be crossed with relatively dry feet or it may be necessary to wade across (in August 1995, a log bridge had been improvised 100 - 150 meters downstream). In any event the crossing is not hazardous and affords the opportunity to cool off and clean some of the swamp from your boots and legs.
On the other side of the stream turn right and continue along the path which follows close to the left bank (downstream) for the remainder of the journey. The jungle along the first section of this path may be an overgrown abandoned rubber plantation as it is often possible to spot trees along the path where the local people are tapping off small amounts of sap using a sharp "V" shaped piece of metal and an old food tin.
After about ten minutes walk from the stream crossing, the route passes alongside a large long house (Rumah Ridan). The people here are very friendly but unless you have never visited a long house before it is probably not worth stopping. Visitors from Brunei make this journey most weekends and you are certainly not a novelty to be invited in for a party. Furthermore, the long house has easy access to Marudi (everyone seems to have a moped!) and you will see little evidence of the traditional lifestyle that can be experienced in Ulu Belait or in the interior of Sarawak.
After the long house the path continues alongside Sungai Ridan, past padi fields and several rice harvesting huts. It is a long walk - between 90 and 120 minutes to the pick up point. In some places there is not much cover and protection from the sun is advisable.
At about two thirds distance the route is crossed by a logging railway (February 1995) and some time later a rough wooden bridge carries the path over a small tributary. In the majority of cases the path from the long house is completely dry but after heavy rain the stream will burst it's banks at several points (particularly downstream, towards Marudi). I reckon that the stream has burst its banks permanently now. Having been down the trail both after a dry spell and a wet spell on both occasions the path was under water from around the logging railway bridge down. It then becomes necessary to wade through water several inches deep. In a number of stretches the path follows a plank walk over low lying, swampy ground.
A few hundred meters before the end of the path the stream veers away to the right. Small boats are often tied up here ready to carry goods for the journey back to the long house. The path then enters secondary jungle before rising steeply up a sandy escarpment. About one hundred meters further is the sandy track which, in dry weather, marks the furthest point from Marudi which may be reached by car.
If your pick up arrangements have gone according to plan (see later), the driver should meet you at this point. If not, or very wet weather has made the sand road impassable, it will be necessary to walk about five hundred meters further to the junction with the main road to Marudi where there are also houses with telephones. If you are expecting a lift, it is probably best to wait here as the walk to Marudi is at least another five kilometres in the open sun.
Asam Paya to Rasau
The return journey begins with a two hour express boat ride towards Kota Baram. Express boats leave the main jetty at frequent intervals in early morning and approximately every two hours during the rest of the day. Although there is normally a 3.00 p.m. boat, it is probably not advisable to delay your departure beyond lunch time to be sure of returning to Brunei before nightfall (the 10.30 am boat allows you to begin walking from Asam Paya around 12.30 p.m. and to return to Brunei sometime after 2.00 p.m.). Make sure to take every opportunity to remind the crew that you want to get off at Asam Paya (they will guess why!).
The journey down the Baram is quite interesting, especially if you are making the trip for the first time. A number of long houses and logging camps are passed on the way and during the last part of the journey towards Kota Baram huge stockpiles of logs litter the river bank. Some of the timber has clearly been there some time and is beginning to be reclaimed by the jungle. The best views are from the roof of the express boat (the interior is over air conditioned and shows non stop kung fu movies!).
The express boat should either drop you off in front of the old Asam Paya long house or at a rough landing area about 100 meters further downstream. From here you need to make your way to the start of the log walk which is located in a low lying, swampy area directly behind the new long house. This building was under construction (February 1995) about 250 meters inland behind the old building.
· The walk from Asam Paya is now rather overgrown - a parang at this point whilst not essential would have been useful in clearing back the ferns. A number of the logs are rotting down.
About 500 meters further downstream on the Baram is a properly strengthened stretch of river bank which marks the start of the track to the Malaysian well Asam Paya 1. A sand road is believed to run to the well, located very close to the Brunei/Sarawak border which is itself only two to three hundred meters from the Rasau road. This may be an interesting alternative return route - mostly good walking with a push through the jungle at the end. I have, however, never spoken to anyone who has attempted it (information comes from helicopter pilots) and some research using maps/aerial photos would be advisable before it is attempted.
The area around the Asam Paya long house has changed considerably over the past few years and finding the start of the return trail is sometimes difficult. Most recently, a logging railway had been built along the first fifteen minutes of the trail behind the new long house. The railway track starts near the left hand end of the long house (as you approach from the river) and runs underneath the house. This railway, I believe was laid in order to get wood out of the jungle for the new longhouse. It is quite definitely not being used now and the track is rapidly being overgrown with ferns and other scrubby bush. The most important point to remember is that the path follows a bearing of 20o for almost the whole way to Brunei (varying only between 10o and 40o). If you are off this bearing, on a overgrown trail then you are almost certainly wrong and should return to the long house to ask directions. In February 1995, the return trail beyond the logging railway was marked with red/white plastic tape, some was still left six months later.
After some twenty minutes from the long house, the trail forks with paths at 50o and 315o - take the more distinct path on 315o (i.e. left) as the other stops a few hundred meters further. The railway track continues right, but is very quickly overgrown and impassable. This is as good a clue as you can get that the other path is the trail. The trail soon resumes the 20o bearing but shortly after appears to stop at a small clearing. The path continues just beyond a large log, almost due north at the other side of the clearing, this is the start of the short, "log walk" section of the return journey.
The walk through to the Rasau road can be done in under one hour but normally takes about 90 minutes. Most of the route follows a log walk similar to the previous day except that the ground is much drier and the surrounding jungle floor is muddy rather than deep swamp.
At about half distance, there is an area where a lightning strike some five years ago caused a fire which burnt out an area a few hundred meters across. The jungle is now re establishing itself with bracken and thick undergrowth returning (in fact people who have made the trip most recently report that little evidence of the fire remains). The path continues to the right just before the clearing and goes around the clearing. If you go into the centre of the clearing you have gone too far. Retrace your steps keeping your eyes open for a notched log going down to a fallen tree. The path at this point follows fallen trees and can be difficult to follow - at one point people have cut arrows in a fallen tree to indicate a particularly obscure left turn. The most important points to remember are that the path continues on a 20o bearing and that it is a well trodden trail (possibly still marked with red/white tape). If in doubt retrace your steps to the start of the burnt out section and try again (It was at this point in 1993 that two Dutch from BSP became disorientated and did not reach Brunei until 10.00 p.m.!).
Just before you cross the border (which is not marked) the log walk gives way to a normal jungle trail and several logging railways cross the path. A few hundred meters later you will emerge on the Rasau road through a rough swampy area which has been cleared of trees. At this point having kept yourself basically dry and clean for the rest of the walk, you get wet and smelly!
A number of options then exist:
1. Turn right and walk back over the new bridge, then on to the KBBC via an old track along - side the Belait (about 90 minutes).
2. Walk to the new bridge where you left a car two days earlier (30 minutes).
3. Use your mobile phone to call a friend to pick you up.
4. Hope to hitch a lift from passing traffic (a good option a few years ago when the road was used almost exclusively by BSP vehicles, but difficult/risky now that the road is virtually open to the public).
5. Turn left and head towards the Rasau oil field. When you reach the sandy track on the right follow it through to the end. This takes you through the oil field to Kampong Rasau. At the end of the sandy track follow the metalled road down to the ferry. We then used a phone in the SMR terminal to organise a pick up
6. If you are running a little behind schedule you may be lucky and able to catch a bus running from the border (Sungai Tujoh) to KB, which comes past the KBBC. A good point to get out and enjoy a refreshing orange juice!
TimingThe road journey from the KBBC (a useful place to meet and leave cars, close to the return trail) to the end of Labi road will take approximately two hours. The log walk itself can be completed in under four hours in dry conditions or up to six if it is wet or you spend time at the long house. This would mean that for an 8.00 am departure from KBBC you will start walking at 10.00 am and reach the end of the trail sometime after 2.00 p.m.. It is important to make a reasonable estimate of your arrival time to ensure that you do not have to wait for transport at the Marudi end (see below).
The return journey through Asam Paya takes around 90 minutes after a two hour express boat ride from Marudi.
Transport in MarudiAfter you emerge from the jungle close to Marudi it is still at least another five kilometre walk to the town centre in the open sun. Fortunately a local Chinese man operates an unofficial taxi service around the neighbourhood in a Toyota mini van. When you telephone to book your hotel, tell the receptionist that you will be arriving from Brunei, give your best estimated arrival time and ask them to arrange transport for you. The man is very reliable (he has been known borrow a truck when his van broke down and to walk up the trail searching for you if you are late!) and will charge only M$ 2 per person for the journey to town.
If you ask in advance via the hotel he will have cold drinks ready for your party at his house near the end of the trail (own account of course) and most recently cold beers were available. I take full credit for these latest developments!
Note that the hotel is normally very helpful in making arrangements but may give you the driver's telephone number and suggest you call him yourself. This is not a good idea, however, as his English is very limited.
Accommodation in MarudiThere are basically two options:
Mayland Hotel (085-755106/7 or 755089 or 755043, Fax 755333)
This is very cheap (M$25 - 35) and basic although all rooms have air conditioning and en suite shower/toilet. This is a very friendly hotel who once telephoned me in Brunei on a Friday night to warn that convicts had escaped from the local jail and that there would be many police along the trail to the border. This was good of them especially as I was not planning to make a trip that weekend!
Victoria Hotel (085-756071 or 756067 or 756064, fax 756864)
A more upmarket hotel (M$55) of the same standard as some of the small Chinese hotels in Miri. This hotel is favoured by bachelor trips as they tend to show "educational" videos on the house movie channel throughout the night!
Grand Hotel
This is a new hotel, opened in 1996. The rooms are clean and fitted with aircon. Each room has a shower en suite along with a T.V. Price May 1997 was M$38 (up from M$35 in 1996). Friendly staff - the manager also owns the Victoria, but is very pleased with the Grand.
Marudi HighlightsFood: Boon Kee Chinese Restaurant (Lot 947 Marudi Bazaar)
Phone 085-756352, Yap Mui Mooi Manageress. Fantastic Chinese food (easily as good as Apollo or Maxims in Miri) located at the back of town about 400 meters from the Baram, next to the Volcano (see below). Try the local wild boar, deer meat and river fish. They also offer western breakfast to order but this is not in the same league as the local food.
Riverview Restaurant this is a Chinese restaurant on the water front serving all the regular Chinese dishes - and a Chinese breakfast. We found it very pleasant, sitting out on the riverside watching the sun go down over the Baram. sipping a cool beer from chilled glasses and the boats still ploughing their way up and down the river.
Night life Volcano - Seedy disco which is OK when it gets busy on a Saturday night, otherwise quite depressing with three or four locals dancing with themselves in front of a mirror (next to Boon Kee).
Karaoke is very big in Marudi. There are several karaoke bars around town most of which are packed and love to see expats making fools of themselves (try Queens Square Karaoke).
Snooker - there is also a snooker bar on the square, which is quite entertaining. Don't be tempted to play the locals unless you have been particularly abstemious earlier in the evening and you are naturally a reasonable player.
Shopping Local crafts such as blowpipes and wood carvings are considerably cheaper than in Miri. The best shop is in the same block as the Victoria Hotel, although his stocks are sometimes low. The owner will give you a sketch map of the Ulu showing where he has traded for the various goods.
Carbide lamps, parangs, fishing nets, shotgun cartridges and other hunting gear (if you are into that sort of thing) can be purchased cheaply in many hardware stores around the central square.
ClothingClothing for the log walk is dependant on personal preference - the only certainty is that you are going to get wet. Most people elect for long trousers/leggings, and a t shirt. Don't wear your best white kangaroo skin aerobics shoes! Canvass boots are best as they will not hold water and dry out easily, but old training shoes are also adequate providing they will afford some grip on the slippery logs.
It is also worth bearing in mind that the trail is occasionally prone to leeches (depending on the weather and time of year). If you do wear long trousers tuck them in or wear tights underneath for protection (leeches will penetrate woollen socks but not tights, leggings or tightly woven cotton socks). Alternatively wear shorts and try to spot the leeches before they take hold.
Your change of clothes and shoes for the evening should be packed in waterproof bags in case it rains or you take an early bath in the swamp or at one of the river crossings.
Other Things to TakeSmall rucksack
Sandwiches for the first day
Snacks for the return journey
Water bottle
Compass
Parang (to cut poles, unless you do this in advance)
First aid kit (include Sudocream against chaffing and Alka Seltzer!)
Insect repellent (against mosquitoes and leeches)
Torch and matches/lighter (just in case!)
Malaysian Ringgits
Hat/sunglasses
Sunscreen (especially for protection on the roof of the express boat)
Camera.
Don't bother with waterproofs (too hot and get in the way) but consider taking a small string hammock (about B$10 in KB). This is useful to rest in whilst you wait for the stragglers at the end of the trail but will also double as a stretcher should anyone injure themselves on the logs (you will be reluctant to call out the "official" services!).
The "Health Warning"This is of course an illegal trip as you will be crossing the border without authority The laws of both countries probably call for stiff fines and prison sentences for offenders (not to mention trouble with the company).
Having said this I have only heard of two groups getting into difficulties. One found themselves staying in the same hotel as the Malaysian district police chief who happened to be on a visit to Marudi. He realised where they came from (expats rarely stay overnight in Marudi these days) but was unconcerned providing they return to Brunei the next day and were not intending to continue upriver to Mulu.
The second ran into a group of soldiers (probably Malaysian) when they made the trip mid week and were returning to Brunei via the Marudi log walk. These had to pay a "fine" to the soldiers and were allowed to proceed on their way with a warning.
It is a good idea to carry passports or other Brunei IC with you in case you have problems and to take any steps necessary to try to ensure that the matter is not taken further.
List of WaypointsOutward
| Waypoint | Description | Co-ordinates |
|
| (Timbali) | |
| 1 | End of Labi Road | N 04° 17' 04.4" |
|
| Rumah Panjang Teraja | E 114° 24' 54.6" |
|
| ||
| 2 | First Ridge | N 04° 16' 04.5" |
|
| Middle of the Swamp | E 114° 24' 35.2" |
|
| ||
| 3 | Third Ridge | N 04° 15' 33.1" |
|
| E 114° 24' 19.7" | |
| 4 | Fourth Ridge | N 04° 15' 18.3" |
|
| E 114° 24' 19.0" | |
| 5 | River Crossing | N 04° 15' 01.7" |
|
| Upstream Rumah Ridan | E 114° 24' 11.4" |
| 6 | Path Alongside Sungai Ridan | N 04° 14' 21.6" |
|
| E 114° 22' 42.6" | |
| 7 | Path Alongside Sungai Ridan | N 04° 14' 13.2" |
|
| E 114° 22' 21.6" | |
| 8 | Pick up Point - End of Walk | N 04° 12' 26.0" |
|
| E 114° 20' 58.6" | |
| Return | ||
| 9 | Asam Paya | N 04° 32' 11.1" |
|
| Drop off Point on Sungai Baram. | E 114° 10' 19.5" |
|
| 100 meters downstream of the Longhouse | |
| 10 | Rasau Road (decimal minute coordinates) | N 04° 33.152' |
|
| End of the Path | E 115° 11.400' |
|
|
3. Ulu Belait to MuluAn Account of the Trek Between Ingai Hot Springs, Brunei and Mulu National Park, Sarawak. And a boat trip over the Belait river upto the source.
IntroductionEarly in 1994, Edwin Punselie and I were studying the satellite photograph of Brunei and Sarawak. We had both made the Marudi log walk several times and wanted to devise a more unusual round trip between Brunei and Sarawak. Some month earlier, I had made a weekend trip to the Ingai Hot Springs in Ulu Belait and we were surprised to see how close these were to the border and Mulu National Park We also felt confident that once over the border, the many logging tracks shown on the photograph would make walking very easy (just the same as walking from Kuala Belait to Anduki we told ourselves!).
Some time later, I was out of the country when Edwin managed to organise a boat for a few days and set of up river with Bob Tucker. Whilst their boatmen waited at Sungai Ingai and fished, Edwin and Bob followed old army/hunters trails for a day and a half until these ran out and then continued across country. Running short of water and with no idea how far they had penetrated, they then turned back to Sungai Ingai to be sure of meeting the boatmen before they headed back to Kuala Belait on the morning of the fourth day. They had marked their trail with toilet paper on the way out and were careful to replace this with red/white plastic tape on the return.
In October 1994, with Edwin's departure for Oman imminent, we decided to make another attempt - this time with a global positioning system (GPS) to be able to more accurately measure our progress. Having borrowed a Magellan from someone who we assured that we were "just going up river for a few days" and spending an afternoon studying maps and photographs with Jack Verouden and Nick Kirby in BSP topo department, we set of again. Unfortunately we were without Bob Tucker who was stuck in Miri with a combination of business, passport and hangover problems.
This time we were successful, with the most serious difficulties coming only after we had reached Mulu when Eric Merral's brother in law tried to take us down river to Long Terawan in time to catch the 6.30 am express boat to Marudi. Setting off at 4.30 am, in pitch darkness, after a night's celebration, the rapids along the Tutoh river proved too difficult for us to make fast progress and we returned to Mulu after missing the boat. We were then fortunate to be able to catch the flight to Miri and see most of our route again from the air.
Most of the credit for our success was due to Edwin, with his superb camp craft and jungle knowledge gained during more than ten years in Brunei and Sarawak. I was only useful to operate and carry the GPS (not an inconsiderable task since the old Magellan has the size and weight of a house brick!). Our route is described on the following pages.
Route DescriptionDay One
Travel by boat from Kampong Sungai Mau on the Labi Road to the confluence of Sungai Belait and Sungai Ingai. The journey time is approximately 5 hours, passing Kampongs Apak Apak, Sukan and finally Melilas on the way.
An old army camp site lies about 100 meters upstream on the left bank of Sungai Ingai. This is the base camp for your boatman and the drop off point for the trek if the water level in Sungai Ingai is too low to permit the boat to travel further upstream.
After one hours boat ride, or two hours walk along a path which runs close to the left bank, you reach the furthest navigable point on Sungai Ingai. This is at the confluence of Sungai Ingai and a small tributary (joining from the left hand side) with a half meter high waterfall just upstream on the Ingai. The drop off point is at the left hand edge of the waterfall where the ground rises steeply and a well trodden path (normal route to Ingai Hot Springs) continues up the ridge.
Continue along the path up the ridge towards the hot springs. Possible camp sites lie all along the route - our camp 1 was about 150 meters from the drop off point (way point 1).
Day Two
A well trodden path, marked by occasional aluminium posts, leads to the hot springs, approximately 30 minutes walk from the drop off point. At one point it is necessary to scramble in and out of a small stream gully as the log bridge has rotten away.
At the hot springs, follow the path past both springs and turn left over some swampy ground, about 3 meters wide. Take the (partly overgrown) path uphill to an old, fern covered helicopter landing area. Continue across the landing area and proceed uphill to a large, abandoned army campsite about 300 meters away on the ridge.
The path from the campsite is in good condition and leaves from the far left hand side of the clearing (don't try to follow the river towards the waterfalls as there is a large U bend - you will loose time and may find yourselves back at the campsite after half an hour as we did!). Look out for occasional aluminium path markers. The trail follows high ground towards the Ingai waterfalls and is cut by several small streams - old log bridges have long since rotten away.
The waterfalls are reached after about 45 minutes walk from the army campsite. The path does not lead directly to the waterfalls which can be heard about 100 meters away, below the ridge to the right (way point 2). Go down the ridge for a swim - it's a beautiful spot!
Note: The trail between the waterfalls and the river (see later) was marked in March 1994 with red/white plastic tape, the majority of which was still in place in October.
Continue along the path in a generally South Easterly direction, slowly climbing towards a steep (limestone?) escarpment which cuts the path approximately two hours walk from the waterfalls (way point 3).
BSP geologists who were involved in the Land Acreage Review study have cast doubt as to whether there could be a limestone outcrop at this point, asserting that the closest outcrops to Brunei are next to the airstrip in Mulu NP. Edwin Punselie, however, remains convinced, adding that he saw evidence of a small cave close to the top of the escarpment during his March 1994 recee. Final resolution of this point awaits the next group to make the trek who should bring back a rock sample!
The steep escarpment runs generally SW - NE and, at the point where the path meets it, is too steep to descend. It is necessary to turn left (NE) and continue for approximately 150 meters along the ridge, towards the sound of running water, before a very small stream running down the escarpment allows you to make the decent. Make the decent and cross the stream before resuming your Southerly heading.
From the escarpment follow less distinct old hunters trails, on low ground, in a generally Southerly direction for about 90 minutes until you reach a large stream (~ 4 meters wide). Sounds of a small waterfall can be heard for a few minutes before the stream is reached (the stream is a tributary of Sungai Ingai). Red/white tape stops at this point.
Turn left and follow the stream upstream for about 300 meters to a small, low lying, clearing (the only one in the area) The undergrowth has been cleared but the canopy is still intact - signs of our camp 2 may still be visible. Way point 4 is about 100 meters away on a ridge behind the camp.
Day Three
The river crossing point is about 50 meters further upstream. The river narrows and an outcrop of harder rock on the river bed provides a shallow crossing point (fill up with water here). Traces of the March 1994 campsite may be visible by the bank at the crossing point.
On the other side of the stream, the ground begins to rise immediately. The path is initially indistinct although it eventually becomes a good ridge path. It is important that you find this ridge as it offers the easiest rout towards the escarpment.
In March 1994, Edwin and Bob went further upstream before crossing using a fallen tree. They then followed rough trails but were unable to find any heading Southerly or South Easterly and with water running scarce they turned back for Ingai.
The ground rises steadily with the sides of the ridge often becoming steep drops to the right and left. The path veers between SE and SW but always follows the main ridge. The trail is generally clear and fast progress can be made.
After 45 - 60 minutes walk from the river crossing, the ridge rises to a high point with a number of fallen trees across the path (Way point 5). The path continues to follow the ridge, descending slightly, initially South East but eventually swinging Northerly before ending abruptly at a steep drop.
Turn right and make a decent of the ridge, following a rough continuation of the ridge path. Resume a South Easterly track to cross the valley of a small stream. The steep decent and ascent of this valley follows indistinct hunters trails. It is necessary to look out for signs of erosion, damaged exposed tree roots and cut saplings to follow the trail, which eventually climbs onto a ridge on the opposite side of the valley.
Note that it may be possible to avoid the descent into the small stream valley by following an alternative path from Way point 5. There was a second, less distinct, path from this point which headed to the right (i.e. South West). This path may allow a steady climb around the source of the stream and on to the ridge that we eventually joined on the way to the border. This, however, is pure speculation!
Follow the ridge South East for about 45 minutes along a path which is generally good, but occasionally less distinct, to the border.
The border is marked by an abandoned logging road (way point 6,. at the crossing point, is marked by plastic tape). Turn left and join a second logging road which follows the ridge until a logging road joining from the right provides the means of descending the escarpment.
When way point 6 was plotted onto a map by BSP topographical department it indicated that this location was at least 300 meters inside Brunei, an error that could not be explained by the normal civilian GPS position uncertainty. Local people in Mulu NP and a number of expats have spoken of an incident in the late 1980's when a local logging company was found to have been illegally logging on Brunei territory. Gurkahs (probably from the Brunei rather than the British garrison) are said to have been dispatched to stop the operation and arrest the loggers. Perhaps this was the spot as we could see little evidence of other logging trails elsewhere on the top of the border escarpment as we flew over on the return journey to Miri. We are certain, however, that the way point marked the watershed at the top of the escarpment which was probably the feature originally intended to mark the border.
Follow the logging trail downhill, past areas where it has been washed away or has become overgrown, until the bottom of the escarpment where the road ends in a swampy clearing. A good quality (though seldom used) sand road leads out of this clearing to the right hand side.
After about 1 km, this road joins the main logging road which runs NE - SW along the base of the escarpment Way point 7. This road is clearly still in use.
Bear right, following the road in a South Westerly direction for about 1.5 km until you reach a left turn which is the junction for Mulu National Park. The turn off is very distinct as most traffic obviously travels in this direction after having come from the other end of the logging road where it originates from the logging camp at the Tutoh river (probably the last navigable point for heavy goods). This is a good place from which to hitch the remaining 5-8 km to the Melinau river and the National Park since the road is still heavily used by logging traffic.
List Of Way Points
| Way Point | Description | Co-ordinates | Day/Time |
Departed K Sungai Mau, Labi Road, 09.00 hrs (Two hour delay on the way to S. Ingai)
| 1 | S. Ingai Drop Off Point (Camp 1) | 04O 08' 00" N | Day 1 |
|
| 150 meters along ridge path on the North | 114O 44' 03" E | 17.30 hrs |
|
| bank, upstream of furthest navigable point |
Departed Camp 1 at 07.30 hrs (lost 30 minutes on the way to the waterfalls)
| 2 | S. Ingai Waterfalls | 04O 07' 43" N | Day 2 |
|
| On ridge path 100 meters North | 114O 44' 23" E | 08.46 hrs |
|
| |||
| 3 | Big Ridge/Escarpment | 4O 07' 35" N | Day 2 |
|
| Top of escarpment at the end of the | 114O 45' 12" E | 10.25 hr |
|
| path from the waterfalls | ||
| 4 | River (Camp 2) | 04O 07' 16" N | Day 2 |
|
| 100 meters up the ridge North of the | 114O 45' 09" E | 12.30 hrs |
|
| river/campsite |
Departed Camp 2 at 07.40 hrs
| 5 | High Point on Ridge South of Camp 2 | 04O 06' 10" N | Day 3 |
|
| Reached here and left water on Day 2 pm | 114O 44' 51" E | 08.35 hrs |
|
| |||
| 6 | Brunei/Sarawak Border Crossing | 04O 05' 55" N | Day 3 |
|
| Abandoned logging road marks the border | 114O 45' 13" E | 10.20 hrs |
|
| |||
| 7 | Junction with Main Logging Road | 04O 05' 19" N | Day 3 |
|
| Fix taken 200 meters SW along the road | 114O 45' 39" E | 11.45 hrs |
|
|
Hitched lift at 12.45 hrs, resumed walking l3.00 hrs, arrived Sungai Melinau, Mulu N.P. 13.30 hrs
GeneralThe Brunei side contains beautiful primary jungle with rivers, waterfalls, steep escarpments and good ridge walks. There is abundant wildlife - we saw red leaf monkeys, a small civet (?) and heard gibbons, hornbills and wild boar. With patience and more time there would certainly be more to see. The Brunei/Sarawak border is marked by an abandoned logging road and most of the area South of Mulu has been logged out several years ago. There are nevertheless good stretches of secondary jungle and spectacular views of G. Mulu, G. Api and the Melinau valley from the top of the border escarpment.
The walk from Sungai Ingai could, in theory be carried out in a single day, however, this would not allow for any errors in finding the correct paths and would inevitably result in an arrival on the main Sarawak logging roads late in the afternoon/evening when the chances of hitching a lift are small. It should be noted that the trail does not pass any running water on the Sarawak side of the border and there are few suitable locations to sling a hammock and make camp.
It is therefore recommended to break the journey at camp 2, which should be reached by early afternoon, and spend the rest of the day finding the correct path up the ridge for the following day. It is also a good idea to carry water up the ridge to minimise the load to be carried next morning (we left a water dump at Way Point 5)
Safety and SecurityYour boatman should wait at the Sungai Ingai base camp for at least three days to ensure that you can return safely should you become lost or one of your party is injured. If an emergency arises beyond camp 2, and you are still on the paths heading SE/SW, it is probably better to press on to the border since the logging roads will enable you to reach civilisation very quickly. It is also important that somebody back in Kuala Belait has details of your plans and has instructions on what actions to take if you become overdue. He should know that if you do become lost this is 99% certain to be on the Brunei side since good paths/viewpoints make orientation on the Mulu side very easy.
We used a GPS to take position fixes and found this invaluable in planning the correct route. We also laid toilet paper to mark the trail, thus enabling us to easily retrace our steps or be found in case of emergency.
Note that, in theory, permits are required to visit Ulu Belait, Mulu National Park and to travel in Sarawak anywhere beyond Marudi. It is also an offence to cross the border without permission/passports. Officials at longhouses on the Belait will prevent you from proceeding beyond Kampong Melilas if they are aware of the purpose of your journey.
PostscriptAt the end of 1995, a group from BSP made the weekend round trip from Kuala Belait to Sungai Ingai. While camping at the old army site at the mouth of the Ingai, they were surprised to hear the sound of chain saws. Local people that they met in the area (which is at least one an a half hours by boat from the nearest Kampong) told them that they were felling trees to build a rest house. Whilst anything which allows access to this remote and beautiful area must be a good thing, it is worrying evidence of the creep of civilisation into one of the last unspoilt places in Brunei.
The contrast between the virgin jungle of Brunei and the logged out tangle of vegetation a few kilometres away over the border could not be more striking. I hope that I will never return to this beautiful area, where we saw absolutely no recent evidence of man, to find a golf course!
4. Ascent of Gunung MuluAn Account of the Trek Made in Mulu National Park Sarawak.
IntroductionThe first ascent of Mulu was made in 1932 by Edward Shackleton as a jaunt at the end of the 1932 Oxford University expedition to Borneo. The mountain had, before then, defied several attempts to climb it by various European explorers and members of Brooke's administration. Mulu is surrounded on all sides by steep escarpments and limestone cliffs which proved impassable to these early adventurers.
The route through the cliffs was discovered by chance by a rhinoceros hunter who tracked an animal along the course of the Sungai Melinau Paku river and up onto the ridge below the summit. Shortly afterwards, he guided Shackleton along this route which is still used by the tourist trail.
Mulu is one of the toughest mountain treks in North Borneo that is regularly made by tourists. The difficulty comes from the length of the trail (a round trip of some forty five kilometres) and the fact that the ascent to 2,376 meters (7,795 feet) begins close to sea level. Nevertheless it is well within the capabilities of a reasonably fit person and only lightweight packs need be carried since there are permanent wooden shelters at each of the overnight camp sites.
Route DescriptionDay One
Depart National Park Headquarters (Waypoint 1) for the 5.6 km walk to Camp 1. The trail follows a plank walk for the first 500 meters before descending to the jungle floor. Just after the plank walk the path passes over some limestone outcrops and it is necessary to watch carefully for the red/white trail markers.
After 200 meters the path becomes distinct and wide, passing through generally low lying muddy ground with numerous log bridges over small streams. People who have made the trek in very wet conditions report that this section of the trail is prone to flooding.
After about one hours walk the trail crosses Sungai Melinau Paku (Waypoint 2). Spectacular limestone cliffs can be seen either side of the trail at this point. This is a good rest spot as it is about half way to Camp 1 and the shingle on the river bank is relatively free from leeches.
For the next 2 - 3 km the trail continues through low lying primary rain forest, past the turn off to the Sarawak Chamber and slowly ascends to Camp 1 at approximately 150 meters (Waypoint 3). 500 meters before Camp 1 the path crosses a fast moving stream. There are (slippery) stepping stones but it will be necessary to wade unless the water level is very low (if you have managed to keep your boots dry up to this point take them off and carry them as you should then be able to continue for most of the next dry with dry feet).
The total journey time to Camp 1 is approximately 2 hours including a short stop at Waypoint 2.
Camp 1 is a partially enclosed hut with a raised sleeping area which should accommodate 12 people comfortably. There are separate toilets and a good spot for bathing and filling water bottles at a stream 20 meters away. Food is cooked over an open fire just outside the hut.
Day Two
The trail from Camp 1 ascends gradually at first towards Camp 2 at the 7.5 km marker. This is not a permanent camp but a small clearing on the right hand side of the path by a small stream and is the last guaranteed water source before Camp 3 at 11.8 km. If you have left Camp 1 with 2 - 3 litres it will probably not be worth filling up here.
After Camp 2 the trail becomes increasingly steep with sections between the 10 km marker and Camp 3 requiring the use of hands to pull yourself up through tree roots and small saplings. Immediately before Camp 3 the path levels through a boggy area where a number of planks have been placed across the trail. This area is frequently cloud covered and moss covers most of the trees.
Camp 3, at approximately 1300 meters (Waypoint 5) marks the halfway point on day two. It is reached after just over three hours walk and is a good lunch stop. There is a hut of similar (but more recent) construction to Camp 1, with toilets and water available from rainwater tanks.
After Camp 3 there is a very steep 2 km ascent up Bukit Tumau to the ridge which leads to Camp 4 and the summit. At a number of points ropes have been placed to assist where the trail is steepest and hand/foot holds most difficult to find. Erosion along the path indicates that it would form a small stream in heavy rain.
The 14 km point, at approximately 1500 meters (Waypoint 6), marks the end of the main ascent and the start of the ridge. From here to Camp 4 the path is relatively level with only gradual ascents/descents as the trail climbs slowly for almost 5 km towards Camp 4 at 1800 meters. There is now a distinctively different vegetation with the low level primary rain forest having given way to small stunted trees and bushes. Large pitcher plants are also in abundance. At several places along the ridge there are good view points across the Mulu mountain range.
Camp 4 at 18.8 km (Waypoint 8) is a very simple raised hut with four corrugated iron walls and roof. The eaves are open to let out the smoke from the fire which is used for cooking and for warmth. The helipad which was used to ferry in building materials is 50 meters further down the trail and affords good views of the next day's ascent to the summit.
Day Three
The ascent to the summit from Camp 4 takes approximately 1.5 hours. This means that the signpost at Park Headquarters, which indicates the total distance of the summit trail as 24 km, must be wrong. The last trail marker outside Camp 4 shows 19.5 km from where we estimated that it was no more than 2.5 km to the summit.
Three distinct peaks of increasing height can be seen from the Camp 4 helipad. These are actually only points where the trail climbs less steeply and there seem to be no distinct "valleys" between each peak.
The trail is very steep in places with almost vertical stretches where it is necessary to make use of fixed ropes. The vegetation has also changed to the "mossy forest" or "cloud forest" with all the stunted trees covered in a thick layer of moss. The slopes here a frequently covered in cloud and everything is wet for the majority of the time.
After the first steep ascent, where the trail levels at the first "peak" (Waypoint 9), there is a very good view back along the previous day's trail. Bukit Tumau, the ridge from the 14 km marker to Camp 4 and the helipad can be clearly seen.
The main summit is large and relatively flat with two distinct high points. The first one reached (Waypoint 10) is about 50 meters lower than the second (Waypoint 1l), 150 meters away, where there is a trig. point and an abandoned weather station.
There then follows the long descent to Camp 1 which will take approximately 7 hours, including short meal breaks at Camps 4 & 3.
Day Four
Following a night at Camp 1, return to Park Headquarters.
List of Waypoints
| Waypoint | Description | Co-ordinates | Arrival Time | Arrival Time |
|
| on Ascent | on Descent | ||
| 1 | Park HQ | N 04° 02' 33 1" | Departed 13.20 hrs |
|
| E 114° 48' 38.7" | ||||
| 2 | S Melinau Paku River | N 04° 02' 53.3" | 14.20 hrs |
|
| Crossing | E 114° 50' 00.9" | |||
| 3 | Camp I (Helipad) | N 04° 03' 06.9" | 15.20 hrs | 14.45-15.45 hrs |
|
| E 114° 51' 10.4" | Departed 07.20 hrs | ||
| 4 | 10 km Marker | N 04° 02' 20.3" | 09.15 hrs |
|
| E 114° 52' 36.2" | ||||
| ._ | ||||
| 5 | Camp 3 Helipad | N 04° 02' 19.5" | 10.30 hrs |
|
| E 114° 53' 06.5" | ||||
| 6 | 14 km Marker | N 04° 01' 58.6" | 12.20 hrs |
|
| E 114° 53' 26.6" | ||||
| 7 | 17 km Marker | N 04° 02' 28.3" | 13.45 hrs |
|
| E 114° 54' 10.8" | ||||
| 8 | Camp 4 | N 04° 02' 41.7" | 14.20-15.50 hrs | 09.40 hrs |
|
| E 114° 54' 39.9" | Departed 06.40 hrs | ||
| 9 | First "Peak" on the Summit Ascent | N 04° 02' 51.4" | 07.30 hrs |
|
| E 114° 55' 06.4" | ||||
| 10 | Mulu Summit - First High | N 04° 02' 45.0" | 08.10 hrs |
|
| Point | E 114° 55' 29.5" | |||
| 11 | Mulu Summit - Trig. Point | N 04° 02' 47.1" | 08.20 hrs | Departed 08.40 hrs |
|
| E 114° 55' 37.2" |
GeneralTiming
Our trip lasted four days/three nights with two overnight stops at Camp and one at Camp 4. The disadvantage of this is that whilst days 1 & 4 are short 2 hour walks to/from Park HQ, days 2 & 3 are very long slogs. With a reasonably early start, it would certainly be possible to reach Camp 3 on day 1 which would then reduce the following day's ascent to Camp 4. This would also open up the possibility of reaching the summit on day 2, leaving the option of descending either to Camp 1 or to Park HQ on day 3.
This alternative itinerary may, however, not be popular with the guides who seem to use the short day 1 to assess their customers' fitness. It would also mean that the first day's provisions would need to be portered further up the mountain to Camp 3 rather than to Camp 1. It should also be noted that Camp 3 will be cold at night whilst Camp 1 is comfortably warm.
Several weeks after our trip, two other groups tried this alternative itinerary. One group, who arrived in the park the previous evening, made an early start and reached camp 3 in late afternoon. The following day they were able to make a round trip to the summit with only light packs (waterproofs, lunch etc.), returning to camp 3 by early evening. The second group, however, flew into Mulu in the morning, attempted to reach camp 3 the same day but were forced to turn back to camp 1 when it became clear that they would not reach camp 3 by nightfall.
Equipment
The equipment list is attached in appendix 1 - each persons rucksack weighed just over 10 kg, including water. The most important things to note are that overnight accommodation is in huts so no camping equipment is required and that cooking/eating equipment is provided by the guides. Camp 4 is very cold at night and a lightweight sleeping bag and an extra layer of warm clothes are indispensable. A black plastic bin liner was also useful to cover the end of the sleeping bag and preserve warmth. Essentials for this trip is insect repellent and salt to remove leeches.
Food
Food provided by the guides is basic but adequate. Rice, "maggie mee", eggs and tinned meat/fish feature in most meals. The only food that you will need to take are luxuries such as biscuits, nuts, crisps and muselie bars. Two tips that were useful on our trip were:
Buy fruit flavoured glucose powder (available from any supermarket) and add it to drinking water, possibly with a little salt. This takes away the taste of the Puritabs that you will have added, provides energy and helps guard against mineral loss from dehydration.
Take Alpen or other high energy muselie in a plastic screw top jar together with some milk powder. This is light and, with water added, can be used to supplement breakfast or lunch.
Guides
Our trip of seven persons was accompanied by three "guides":
The National Park ranger whose presence is mandatory although he was of little use. He was, however, the only one of the three to make it all the way to the summit.
A Punan porter who carried the park ranger's gear and about half the food. He made the complete ascent to Camp 4 barefoot!
The Tropical Adventure "tour guide" who carried much of the food and cooked all the meals. Although he was pleasant and helpful, he had never made it to the summit before (his other trips had all turned back) and he had little information to offer on the local flora, fauna or geography. Remember that the guides get paid whether you make it to the summit or not. Mulu guides are notorious for spreading gloom and despondency or setting a crippling pace in the hope that you will turn back and they may get home a night early. Keep your own pace.
Also do not rely on the guides to stick with the back marker, in spite of the fact that there are many places to slip and fall. It is inevitable that members of the party will not all keep the same pace but do try to keep in groups of two or three.
5. The Kubaan TrailA drive along logging roads south of Limbang followed by a walk to the Bario Plateau via one of the traditional Kelabit trading routes.
GeneralThe Bario Plateau lies to the south east of Brunei in Sarawak, just Northwest of the border with Indonesian Kalimantan. It is an isolated area surrounded on three sides by mountain ranges which rise to more than six thousand feet. On the Southern side, rivers drain from the plateau through deep gorges and eventually form the Baram (it is at least three day's ridge walk south from Bario to the first navigable point). Whilst there is now a scheduled air service between Bario and Miri, the inhabitants of the plateau relied for centuries on a handful of overland trading routes. One of these routes passes westward from Bario over the Tamu Abu mountain range and on to Long Lelang via the Punan settlement at Pa Tik. The walk to Long Lelang would take around five days after which it would be possible to proceed by small boat along a river system which eventually joins the Baram.
A logging road now cuts this route between Pa Tik and Bario at a point where the trail follows the Sungai Kubaan valley. This opens up the possibility of a relatively easy overland route to Bario with one days driving on logging roads from Limbang followed by a walk of some 22 km. The walk can just be completed in one day although there are several suitable camping spots along the way (if you don't mind leeches!).
This route description draws partly on a number of driving trips made in 1993/94 and on an unsuccessful attempt to climb Batu Lawi in October 1995 when bad weather caused flight cancellations and forced us to find an alternative route into Bario.
Route DescriptionDay One - Logging roads in Ulu Limbang
From Limbang drive to the WTK base camp at way point 7. This should take approximately six hours following the pace notes attached. The route follows the main logging road which links the WTK timber concession and the log ponds on the Limbang river at Medamit. It is a good quality sand road which is regularly maintained to allow passage of heavy logging trucks.
Note that if you have set off straight from Brunei after work and do not wish to spend the night in Limbang, a possible camp site (no water!) is located approximately 62 km after the check point on the way into the logging concession at N 04° 03' 49.8" E 115° 07' 15.3" (i.e. some 2.5 km before way point 4). There is a large flat area on the right hand side of the road which offers fantastic views over Mulu and Api to the west. The site is high on a hill side and the mist rising from the valley below in early morning is very beautiful.
Just before WTK camp there is a left hand turning with a fork in the road about one hundred meters later. Take the right hand fork which leads on to WTK Jelita camp. The scenery now becomes very spectacular as the road climbs over Bukit Batu Iran (way point 9) at over five thousand feet. At the highest points the primary rain forest can be seen to have given way to smaller stunted trees and ferns. Some exposed sandstone has the distinctive bleached white appearance which is characteristic of Batu Lawi.
Jelita camp (way point 10) is reached after about one hour's drive from WTK base camp. If it is becoming late, it is possible to stay in one of the huts on the camp to save making camp. Take care, however, not to make our mistake of accepting an invitation from one of the loggers without first paying your respects to the camp boss.
As an alternative to staying in the logging huts, suitable camp sites can be found either about forty minutes out of Jelita where the road crosses the wide Sungai Kubaan (way point 12) or, if you have even more time you could consider walking and making camp along the Kubaan trail. The first good spot is some 20 minutes walk along the trail where there are some old hunting huts next to the river. It is uncertain as to whether these huts can be opened or even whether their floors could still support any weight. Nevertheless it would be possible to sleep sheltered underneath them (they are some two meters off the ground) thus avoiding the need to carry tents.
In making this journey in October 1995 we did not set off from Limbang but from Marudi where we had become stranded following cancellation of all flights to Bario. We then needed to travel by express boat upriver to Long Temala (two hours thirty minutes), hire two Toyota pickups and drive eastward, passing close to Long Atip, Mulu and Long Seridan before emerging on the logging roads south of Limbang about half way to WTK camp (close to way point 4). This is much longer than driving from Limbang (we took express boats at 9.00 am but did not reach Jelita until after dark) and would only be interesting if your journey originated from Miri. Further details of the logging roads in the area south of Mulu can be found in the pace notes for the journey from Limbang to Mulu National Park.
Day Two - The Kubaan Trail
The logging road cuts the trail at way point 13, on the brow of a hill a few hundred meters beyond the bridge over Sungai Kubaan. In October 1995, this point was quite distinct with a small shelter having been built by Punans gathering special hard timber used for making long house foundation poles. Note that the air map is incorrect at this point as it places the trail some 800 meters north of Sungai Kubaan whereas comparison of way points 12 and 13 show it to be clearly south of the river.
The trail on the right (western) side of the road leads to the (abandoned) long house at Kubaan and the Punan settlement at Pa Tik. Judging from the distance shown on the map and the type of terrain, Pa Tik should be able to be reached after about half a days walk, offering an alternative to Bario for those who wanted to make a shorter trip.
The path to Bario begins on the left (eastern) side of the road. After about twenty meters there is a sharp right turn as the trail leaves the area cleared by the Punan hunters. We started walking at 8.15 am.
After twenty minutes (8.35 am) the trail emerges into a small clearing next to the river (probably still Sungai Kubaan) where two hunting shelters have been built. Do not take the path to the river but continue past the huts with the river some ten meters away on your left hand side. The Kubaan trail continues at the other side of the clearing.
A further twenty minutes later (8.55 am) the path forks at a small stream which must be a tributary to Sungai Kubaan. Take the left (more distinct) path and ford the stream. Although not very visible before you cross, the path on the other side is wide and obvious.
There is another stream crossing twenty minutes later (9.15 am), this time using a large fallen tree. The trail in this area seemed to be generally following a north easterly direction, contrary to the air map which shows a steady south easterly path. This suggests that the distance walked is considerably longer than the straight line between way points 13 and 16 (which are some 16.5 km apart).
Although the path is wide and easy as it covers level ground, there are several sections where it follows the sides of steep river valleys. Here, although there is little danger of falling any distance, it can be slippery and difficult to find firm footholds.
Eventually, after a further thirty five minutes (9.50 am) the trail descends to Sungai Kubaan. It is now necessary to ford the river from the right hand to left hand banks (facing upstream). The river is some twenty meters wide and waist deep in places, in October 1995, a steel cable had been fixed across the river to allow it to be crossed safely. After heavy rain the river level will rise considerably (as could be seen from the surrounding banks, trees and boulders) - crossing would then be very difficult.
The trail continues on the other side of the river, slowly climbing up the step valley.
One hour after the river crossing (10.50 am) a log bridge crosses a deep stream gully. As an alternative to crossing the slippery log, it is possible to go to the left and scramble up and down each bank.
Fifteen minutes later (11.05 am) it is necessary to ford another wide river (way point 14). This place may be Long Semirang - an old settlement which is marked on a number of maps but is no longer permanently inhabited. The location of this way point on the air map, and the fact that the river is carrying significantly less water than at the earlier crossing, suggests that this is not Sungai Kubaan but it's main tributary, which the trail now follows all the way to the watershed at the edge of the plateau. On the other side of the river there is a cross-roads with paths to the left and right leading to small huts or hunting shelters. Continue straight ahead.
After forty five minutes (11.50 am) it is necessary to scramble in and out of a deep gully where a log bridge had collapsed. We needed to push through thick rattan, indicating that whilst some sections of the trail are still used by hunters (we saw footprints in several places) the whole length of the path is seldom used. It is only the fact that the trail is in the shade of the forest canopy that prevents it from being slowly overgrown.
The trail descends back towards the river and after ten minutes (12.00 pm) there is a small clearing next to the river with a very old hunting shelter. There are several trails leaving this point and this gave us our greatest uncertainty during the trip.
Standing in the clearing with the river in front of you (flowing right to left) and the shelter on your left, there is one path that continues to your right up the river bank. This leads, after about fifty meters, to a clearing containing a number of old Punan shelters - it is not the correct path. To find the continuation of the trail, cross the river and follow the opposite bank upstream for some twenty meters. Once you reach it the path is wide and distinct although it is not readily visible from the river (do not make the mistake of continuing on the small track which goes steeply uphill directly opposite the hunting shelter).
We stopped here for lunch, sitting on boulders in the water to protect ourselves from the leeches which infested the area. From our position in the river (which was at that time only about thirty centimetres deep) we could see debris in tree branches at least one meter above us. After heavy rainfall it may be necessary to wait here for the water level to fall.
After the lunch stop, the trail swings more definitely south east and begins to climb up to the plateau. The three hour climb (the first of our group arrived on the watershed at around 3.45 pm) is gradual at first becoming steeper in the final sections.
The trail follows the stream to it's source, crossing it at least ten times on the way. During our trip the water level was fairly low and the stream could easily be forded. In many places, however, there were rough log bridges above the stream indicating that the water levels are frequently much higher.
The trail under the forest canopy is very distinct although in several places fallen trees block the path and it is necessary to make detours to search for the correct continuation. The lack of well worn routes around these obstacles is further evidence that the trail is seldom used today.
At two points, approximately half way to the watershed, the trail follows the bed of the stream for short distances. The first begins just before a sharp left hand bend in the stream where there are deep pools and a steep left hand bank. The path, which must once have followed close to the bank, has been washed away but resumes straight ahead on the opposite bank, on the other side of a fallen tree, and then follows the right hand bank upstream.
The second is a longer stretch of more than a hundred meters, higher up the escarpment, where the stream is much smaller. Here the trail follows the bed of the stream before emerging on the right hand bank. Along both of these sections, however, the sides of the stream are steep and it would be difficult to loose the correct trail. Furthermore the continuation of the path a few meters away from the bank is very distinct - we were confident that we were on the correct trail without the assistance of our guide who was by then at least one hour behind us (we left toilet paper to mark our route and prevent the group from becoming split up).
In the upper section of the trail there are several beautiful waterfalls and the tall trees of the primary rain forest begin to give way stunted, moss covered, species and giant ferns. The altitude at the pass over the Tamu Abu range is approximately 5,500 feet (tree cover prevented us from obtaining a proper fix). At this height, whilst the rain forest does begin to change, there is little evidence of the true "mossy forest" which can be found on the upper slopes of Mulu (7,800 feet), Trusmadi (8,700 feet) or even a few kilometres away at the other pass through the Tamu Abu cliffs on the way to Batu Lawi.
The last hundred meters to the pass follows a dry stream bed. There was no view point at the top although it would be possible to climb higher on either side of the trail (we didn't feel like it!). In any event we missed the "shattering views out over the whole interior" promised by Harrisson in his book (see later).
The first part of the descent into Bario follows the valley of a small river and is very similar to the climb on the other side of the pass, although perhaps with more mossy forest. The trail remains steep and slippery with many tree root for tired legs to trip over. This lasts for some forty five minutes (4.30 pm) until the trail begins to widen and the log bridges over small streams are constructed from sawn timber - evidence that civilisation is approaching.
At this point the trail passes a small dam in the river which provides a reservoir for the drinking water supply to the surrounding villages. The water pipe follows close to the path for the remainder of the route.
At the base of the escarpment the trail enters pasture used to graze water buffaloes. The village of Arur Dalan (way point 15) comes into view shortly after (5.00 pm).
The villagers were very friendly and gave us directions for the remainder of the journey to Bario (ask for the airport, Tarawe's lodging house is one hundred meters from the control tower). There is basically only one path which passes alongside the long house and then continues through paddy fields, past the local school and on to Bario five kilometres or forty five minutes later (our first group reached Bario at 17.45 pm, the last - including our Kelabit guide, some two hours later after being ferried from Arur Dalan by moped!).
List of Waypoints (join at waypoint 4 if starting from Limbang)
| Waypoint | Description | Co-ordinates | Time |
|
| (Timbali) | ||
| 1 | Long Temala | N 03° 49' 38.2" | 12.30 hrs |
|
| Logging concession roadhead on Baram River | E 114° 27' 55.0" | |
| 2 | Logging Road | N 03° 48' 09.3" | |
| West of Long Atip | E 114° 56' 13.2" | ||
| 3 | Logging Road | N 03° 57' 30.9" | |
| Area South of Gunung Mulu | E 115° 02' 36.5" | ||
| 4 | Logging Road | N 04° 01' 57.9" | |
| Just after joining North - South logging road | E 115° 07' 15.4" | ||
| from Limbang through WTK concession | |||
| 5 | Logging Road | N 03° 59' 28.0" | |
| Heading South through WTK concession. | E 115° 08' 19.3" | ||
| 6 | Logging Road | N 03° 57' 39.8" | |
| Heading South through WTK concession | E 115° 10' 06.7" | ||
| 7 | WTK Base Camp | N 03° 55' 59.1" | |
| Turn left just before the camp and then take the | E 115° 11' 16.8" | ||
| right hand fork | |||
| 8 | Logging Road | N 03° 52' 13.8" | |
| Continuing towards Jelita Camp. | E 115° 15' 10.5" | ||
| 9 | Pass over Bukit Batu Iran | N 03° 50' 28.3" | |
| On the logging road to Jelita Camp | E 115° 15' 48.8" | ||
| 10 | WTK Jelita Camp | N 03° 50' 00.4" | Arrive 18.30 hrs |
|
| Overnight stop | E 115° 18' 41.5" | Depart 07.30 hrs |
|
| |||
| 11 | Logging Road | N 03° 48' 47.0" | |
| Continue straight on, left hand turning continues to | E 115° 19' 20.8" | ||
| a high point which may offer a view of Batu Lawi | |||
| 12 | Bridge over Sungai Kubaan | N 03° 47' 28.5" | 08.10 hrs |
|
| E 115° 19' 31.7" | ||
| 13 | Start of Trail | N 03° 47' 16.2" | 08.15 hrs |
|
| Logging Road crosses Kubaan Trail which links | E 115° 19' 36.8" | |
| Bario to Pa Tik | |||
| 14 | River Crossing | N 03° 47' 14.9" | 11.05 hrs |
|
| Trail crosses (tributary of?) Sungai Kubaan | E 115° 22' 43.5" | |
| Old hunting shelter - possibly Long Semirang | |||
| 15 | Arur Dalan | N 03° 45' 30.2" | 17.00 hrs to |
|
| First Kampong on the Bario Plateau | E 115° 26' 25.0" | 18.45 hrs |
|
| |||
| 16 | Bario | N 03° 44' 28.7" | 17.45 hrs to |
|
| Way point taken next to old airfield at Tarawe's | E 115° 27' 42.8" | 19.45 hrs |
|
| lodging house |
EquipmentEquipment lists for the drive through the logging concession and the walk to Bario are in the appendix. The exact details will depend on whether you are intending to make camp in the jungle or stay overnight at Jelita camp and push through to Bario in one day.
Planning the TripThis largely depends on how you reach the start of the trail and whether you need to return to pick up cars. I would certainly not recommend leaving cars unattended next to the start of the trail for any length of time unless you can find someone who would sleep next to them for a few dollars per day. If you are intending to make a return trip then either leave your cars at Jelita camp and hitch a lift to the trail or leave some of the less energetic members of your party behind to relax and camp for a few days exploring the logging concession by car. If you do not intend to return the same way then an option would be to hire transport in Limbang for a one way trip to the start of trail (Try Samson Bala if you need to arrange this - he has several relatives working in the area. His phone number is given later).
In theory, it would be possible to make a three day round trip i.e.:
First evening: Kuala Belait to Limbang
Day 1: Drive Limbang to Jelita or camp at S. Kubaan
Day 2: 9 - 11 hour walk to Bario
Day 3: 11.00 am flight to Miri via Marudi then KB by taxi
This, however, would leave no time to make excursions in Bario and the surrounding area, nor allow contingency for flight delays etc. Furthermore if your objective is to enjoy the Kubaan trail then why not take several days, perhaps making a detour to visit Kubaan or Pa Tik.
It is worth remembering that whilst we took up to eleven hours to walk the trail, we were hampered by each carrying up to 40lbs of equipment for our planned Batu Lawi climb (even four day's provisions that our guide had intended to give to porters and luxuries like beer and whiskey that we would have left at base camp to await our return). Either carry the minimum and make the journey in a single day or take full camping equipment and make more leisurely progress.
As an alternative to flying out from Bario, it would be possible to return the same way if you have transport waiting or to carry on overland to Bakalalan, some three days walk from Bario, where flights to the coast are said to be less weather dependent.
Jungle DrivingThe route from Limbang to the start of the Kubaan trail follows the main logging highway through the concession. It is regularly maintained for use by heavy traffic and is navigable in any four wheel drive vehicle. Detailed advice on jungle driving is contained in a separate guide which includes "pace notes" for trips both from Miri and Limbang.
The most important point to remember is that not only do logging vehicles have the right of way (obviously) but that they also drive on either side of the road! This is not as chaotic as it sounds, but is a system to ensure that long, heavily laden trucks leaving the concession do not have to negotiate the outside of bends with dangerous drop offs. At any blind corner or when approaching the brow of a hill, look out for a small sign with a red arrow. This directs you to the correct side of the road at that particular point. Hopefully there will be a similar sign on the other side pointing oncoming traffic in the opposite direction!
In general be courteous to logging vehicles, pulling over to let them pass whenever necessary.
PermitsThe type of permits that are required depend on where you start your trip and whether you will be using your own transport. The system of issuing permits to restrict access to the Ulu (interior) was first introduced by Brooke in the last century to discourage missionaries and other European settlers who may ferment trouble amongst the inhabitants. The procedure is maintained today largely due to sensitivities surrounding logging activities and their effects on the indigenous people and wildlife. Rules are strictly enforced during periods of protest by Ulu inhabitants - as happened in 1993/94 when Punans blockaded logging roads Southeast of Long San and when residents of Long Terawan protested about the confiscation of their traditional lands around Mulu for the planned construction of a golf course and luxury resort.
Permits to visit Bario - are officially required for anyone not arriving by scheduled flight. These can be obtained from the Residents Office in either Miri, Marudi or Limbang. The standard procedure (which is sometimes waived, but don't count on it!) is to first visit the police station with two copies of your passport in order to gain clearance for the trip. You will be required to complete a form with your profession, other personal details and the purpose of your trip (ecologists, journalists, members of Greenpeace etc. are automatically excluded at this stage!). The police inspector endorses the form which you then take to the Residents Office where you complete yet another form to enable your permit to be issued.
Permits to enter the Logging Concession i.e. to pass the logging company checkpoint 20 km past Medamit are required for anyone using their own transport. These can be obtained from Limbang Trading Company whose offices are in a marble fronted building opposite Limbang market. Latest reports (October 1995) are that vehicles without this permit were being turned back at the checkpoint.
Limbang Trading and the police check point do not seem to be asking to see any permits from the Residents Office at the moment, however, these are advisable if you intend to walk anywhere. Note that the same procedure applies if your ultimate destination is not Bario but Pa Tik, Long Seridan or Mulu. The Residents Office will issue the relevant permit.
Around BarioMost tourists who visit Bario do so as part of a major trip, such as the climb up Batu Lawi or Murud, or at one end of a long trek to or from Long Lelang or Bakalalan. Few people come to just spend time in Bario or one of the outlying villages on the Plains of Bah. This reflects the fact that there are almost no tourist facilities in the area nor well known places of interest to justify a specific journey to the highlands. Nevertheless it is worthwhile allowing time to experience the outstanding hospitality offered by the Kelabit people and, as a min