At sea, observations of marine life can range from small organisms such as sponges to large marine animals such as sharks and whales. A lot of marine life can be seen on the coral reefs or around platforms. Scuba diving and sometimes snorkelling is the best way to observe this habitat. Observing large animals that roam the sea requires an aircraft or a boat. Systematic observations require a network of interested individuals who regularly go offshore, e.g. divers, fishermen, helicopter pilots. Such a network was set up by the PNHS in 1989 (called the Seawatch project) and is continued by the Natural History Section of the Brunei Museum. For those who do not dive or do not go offshore, marine animals are irregularly found stranded on our beaches.

Intuitively, we think of anemones as plants or flowers, endlessly waving in the currents among other sea vegetation such as kelp and algae. In fact, anemones are animals, and they are so closely related to corals and jellyfish that they fall in the same phylum: the coelenterates, or "hollow intestines". In that group, the anemones form a large family appropriately named Anthozoa, or "flower-animals".

Anemones have no head, but they have a mouth; they have no feet, but they can move slowly on their muscular base; they are boneless, but their tentacles are surprisingly strong. A link in the animal kingdom between single-cell and pluri-cell animals, anemones have no true organs, but extremely specialised cells which assume their functions.

Anemones are carnivorous, and their tentacles sweep the water gently but continually for prey. When one tentacle comes into contact with food, it sends a signal to the others. The tentacles first stun the prey with poison from their stinging cells, then wrap themselves around it, and convey it to the mouth. The prey is digested by gut cells, and the indigestible leftovers are eventually ejected by the mouth and carried away by the current. Anemones are greedy, and will sometimes eat crabs or fishes that are larger than them; yet their main food is micro-plankton, which are absorbed directly by the body cells.

Curiously, anemones tolerate and even welcome a few animals in the midst of their tentacles. The best known of these must be the photogenic anemonefishes, in particular the clownfishes, easily recognised by three vertical white bands on a bright orange robe and black fin tips. Other anemonefishes come in many different colours, sometimes determined by their host anemone. The fishes are not stung by the anemone because they coat themselves with a protective mucous substance secreted by the tentacles. By moving slowly among the tentacles, anemonefishes keep maintaining this coating. Ironically, the anemone needs this mucous too, otherwise its tentacles would poison each other.

The partnership of anemones and anemonefishes has been popularised by underwater photographers, yet the true nature of the relationship remains debated among scientists. How does each benefit from the other? One of the latest theories is that the symbiosis is actually a triangular one, between the fishes, the anemones, and some micro-organisms that live on the surface of the tentacles.

Anemones can also help us humans: by studying their tissues, pharmaceutical scientists have discovered molecules which are now routinely used in cardiology and cancer treatment. Fortunately, these precious molecules can be manufactured in the laboratory, so there is no need to harvest anemones.

There have been anemones for three billion years, and during that time they have adapted to all shallow waters, from polar to tropical. They are likely to be around for long still, as they are relatively immune to low levels of marine pollution. In favourable conditions, an anemone such as the one pictured here can live up to 70 years of age.

Although two of the eight hundred named species of anemones have a sting which can be lethal to humans, neither of these occurs in Brunei waters.

Figure 2 Clown Anemonefish around a Giant Sea Anemone, which can grow up to 1 meter in diameter. Jeroen Regtien offshore Brunei.

One of the special marine creatures to be found along the Brunei shores is the sponge (Porifera). Sponges are mainly concentrated around reef complexes and on the artificial reefs created by, for example, the two disposed oil rigs.

Sponges occur in a variety of shapes and sizes and are often brightly coloured. Sponges are a very ancient and basic group of animals. Around the world we find more than 5000 species of sponges classified in 700 genuses, 80 sub orders and 4 orders. Under water the sponge body is easily influenced by external factors like waves or currents which control the sponge morphology.

Generally, sponges are multicellar animals with their entire cell organisation devoted to filtering micro-organisms and dissolved organic matter from the water. Via many internal tubes and chambers, water and suspended food are transported by the waving action of soft hairs or "flagella" which line the passageways. Sponges consist of many cells, which work together but are more or less independent of each other. When a sponge dies because of mechanical pressure or unfavourable conditions, some cells may survive, detach from the sponge body in an amoeboid form, regroup and grow into a new sponge. This give sponges a striking power of regeneration.

All sponges have a radial symmetry. However they show a great variation in size and form, from sheets or irregular mats, of vase, tabular, or barrel shapes. Their texture varies from hard and rough to smooth and soft and their diameter from a few centimetres to several meters. These varied forms result from their need to eject water at a safe distance so it will not be inhaled again, as the expelled water is depleted of food and oxygen and contains waste products. A litre volume of sponge tissue can filter between 36 and 125 litres of water per hour. A few species of sponges live for several years, but hard textured species can live as long as 25-50 years.

The only part most of us know from the sponge is its skeleton built from a latticework of spikulae consisting of calcium carbonate, of glassy silicate, of horny material, or of a fibrous texture, like the "bath sponge". The skeleton of Euspongia, in particular, can make a good cleaning utensil, bath sponge, or paint brush because of its strong and soft fibres. Some of the spikulae can perforate the sponge body and these will create a strong irritation if touched.

Some species are a bio-indicator for seawater pollution, when they are found to contain heavy metals and pesticidal DDT. Another use for sponges is in the biochemical and pharmaceutical industry, for the production of anti-microbiological compounds, for instance the antibiotic "Ectyonin". The Mikrocina prolifera sponge contains many pigments and other chemicals.

Sponges have an important function in the ecosystem: They often harbour a cluster of algae like Zooxanthallae (brown algae) and Cyanellae (blue algae), while in other species like Annalida and Ophiuroidea, barnacles usually cover the sponge body. The Speciospongia vespera has a body like a large dining plate and can harbour 16.000 small shrimps (genus Synalpheus) on its body surface. Shrimps from the Spongicola sp. live in a silicate sponge, having entered the sponge body from its water canals and grown up there. By the time they are mature they can't get out of the sponge body because the sponge mouths are closed by a filter net. Sponges Suberites suberea and others live on the shells of molluscs, and there are forms that grow on wharf piles and floats, on algae, and even upon the backs of crabs. When the sponge breaks the crab's back, the crab still lives in the sponge's body cavity. Other crabs (Dromia sp.) can make use of the sponges to camouflage themselves by breaking up the sponge and attaching sponge parts to its back and legs. Other sponges live on the coral reef and can be eaten by the coral fish.

In short, many sponges live in symbiosis with other marine organisms and have an essential role in balancing the ecosystem.

This mollusc has earned its place in the book of records! The giant clam is a direct relative of the ordinary cockles served in seafood restaurants, but it is several thousand times larger. It can grow to a length of over 1.2 m and weigh over 220 kg. It can also live much longer than humans, although it is not yet known exactly how long.

The giant clam belongs to the group of bivalves (molluscs). Bivalves are equipped with a pair of shell valves which protect the soft body. In giant clams, the soft mantle fuses into a single piece of tissue spread between the shell valves, leaving one opening for the intake of water and another for exhalation.

The reason for these remarkable characteristics is that the giant clam leads a bountiful life, based on a relationship of total co-operation with certain types of algae. The mantle of the giant clam has special spaces for these algae to grow. As the clam filters water through the mantle to feed, the algae thrive and produce a large supply of oxygen for the clam. This oxygen also feeds small organisms living in the mantle, whose speciality is to manufacture more food for the clam. It is these organisms and the algae that give the mantle its striking colours, from a myriad of greens to a deep velvety blue.

The giant clams have no head, a single "foot", a three-chambered heart and a very simple circulatory system, but their nervous system, concentrated on the surface of the mantle, is so sensitive that it will detect the slightest threat and cause the clam to shut tight for protection.

Another exceptional characteristic of the giant clam is its reproduction system. A true hermaphrodite, it emits alternate jets of male and female reproductive cells from its exhalant siphon. Fertilisation, which takes place in open waters, is a hazardous and wasteful process, but since each jet contains several billion cells, the species is able to reproduce.

Although giant clam shells have been used traditionally as large water bowls, the adult clams have no real predators. However, they need to live in clean and clear waters to maintain a continuous and plentiful supply of food and light. In Brunei waters, the giant clam can be found on the various reef complexes. They are sometimes found so embedded in the surrounding coral that they contribute to the structural strength of the reef. With many of the ocean reefs silting up or dying from human interventions such as dynamite and cyanide fishing, the giant clam also has a place in the sinister book of threatened species.

Figure 3 Giant clams are stationary inhabitants of coral reefs, and are sometimes so embedded in the surrounding coral that they contribute to the structural strength of the reef. Picture taken by Jeroen Regtien in Sipadan.

Calmer weather has returned to Brunei and, with it, the number of jellyfish sightings around platforms, in the shallow waters, and on the beach at Panaga has increased.

.Jellyfish around legs of a BSP platform (MF)

Jellyfish are members of the phylum Coelenterata. The phylum also includes other animals such as sea anemones, fire coral, and stinging hydroids. All of the creatures in the group have stinging cells or nematocysts. The sting of many jellyfish is harmless as the nematocysts are unable to penetrate human skin. However, quite a few species are capable of delivering very painful stings and a few can even cause death.

A number of jellyfish is seen in the waters off Brunei. This includes the Portuguese man-o-war or bluebottle (Physalia ), the "blubber" (Catoslylus mosaicus ), the lion's mane or hair jellyfish, and the boxjellyfish (Chiropsalmus quadrigatus ). In the Muara area, the boxjellyfish has been responsible for a number of deaths and has caused respiratory arrest in a child of three with as little as a sting at the hand.

At Panaga, most of the jellyfish sighted are harmless. You may find regularly many small or a single big jellyfish laying dead on the beach. The biggest nuisance are the bluebottles which at times, can be present in large numbers. For example, in January 1998, with strong wind and currents many were found stranded dead on the beach. These can cause a painful sting but are rarely dangerous. The bluebottle cannot swim, so it is blown around by the wind with a blue "sail", and hence is found in shoals whose position are dependent on the winds. Bluebottles have a single tentacle full of nematocysts. This tentacle can extend to several meters and be withdrawn. A swimmer may be stung by many yellyfish at once. Symptoms include pain and tingling. If the stings are severe one may experience nausea, drowsiness and (rarely) trouble with breathing.

Clearly, the boxjellyfish is the most dangerous one. Luckily its habitat is not close to Panaga, hence this jellyfish is rarely seen here. Dr. Mark Holloway from the Panaga hospital has been following local boxjellyfish occurrences the last five years. He remarks that over a period of three years of daily beach patrols in the Belait area by an amateur marine biology enthusiast, only two boxjellyfish were discovered. No other sightings where reported until this January 1998 when a stranded specimen was found on the E7/8 beach. Mark has personally examined these three boxjellyfish specimens. They were all dead with a bell averaging 10-12 cm and a single long tentacle at each corner. This fits the description of Chiropsalmus quadrigatus. This is a less venomous species of boxjellyfish but still potentiallly fatal to children. Mark believes that these jellyfish are not endemic to the Belait beach but may have been washed down from Brunei bay or Tutong area. There have been no documented boxjellyfish stings in the Belait area although he has seen two suspicious stings over the last five years.

.Dr. Halloway with the boxjellyfish found in January 1998 at E7/8 draped around his fist (PA)

Apart from Australia, the hottest spots for the boxjellyfish are the Philippines and Labuan (at the head of Brunei Bay). Authorities have estimated the annual death rate in the Philippines as 20-40. The Labuan district hospital confirms 2-3 deaths a year and 1-2 survivors following intensive care treatment. There have been two deaths in Muara, while two deaths were recently reported on the island of Langkawi on the west coast of Malaysia. Penang has also reported a fatality, as well as Sabah (pulau Sapi), Sarawak, Solomon Islands and Papua New Guinea.

There is a seasonal variation of stings around Borneo: most stings are recorded between March and October. This may relate to breeding and/or weather patterns. Certainly the boxjellyfish prefers calm weather and is often confined to bays and estuaries. Most of the year, the beach at Panaga is too rough for all but a lost boxjellyfish.

Most boxjellyfish breed in the mangroves and the decline in the turtle population (the main jellyfish predator) around the country has brought an increase in the number of these creatures. They feed in coastal areas, moving very quickly trailing their tentacles several metres behind their bell.

The boxjellyfish likes calm water and has a primitive light sensitive cell, which allows it to avoid large predators by evading shadows. They are particularly dangerous on an overcast calm summer day and after storms when they return for feeding.

The boxjellyfish Chiropsalmus quadrigatus is capable of killing a small child if about 2 m of tentacle attaches and discharges. The tentacles are several meters long and have millions of nematocysts which fire on touch, chemicals and currents so maximizing the capture of prey. The tentacles wrap around the prey by the action of nematocysts with "grappling hooks" maximising therefore the discharge of toxin. The chiropoids are able to inject toxin directly into the bloodstream and can cause death in minutes.

Vinegar stabilises jellyfish nematocysts from further discharge. It does not take away pain and it does not take away the toxic effect of the toxin already absorbed but it prevents further injection. Do not attempt to wash with tap water. Vinegar should be poured all over the sting for at least 30 seconds before the tentacles are removed and the area wrapped in vinegar-soaked bandages. All sting victims should be taken to a hospital even if they appear to make a full recovery.

To prevent stings, do not rush into the water or jump into the water off boats but look out for jellyfish stranded on the beach or floating in the water. If you see many, avoid swimming. To protect young children, clothe them with a stinger suit, know how to give first aid, and carry vinegar. During opening hours, vinegar is available at the Panaga Club beach shelter and at the KBBC.

In May 1997, with the start of calm weather, various big jellyfish were found stranded and the shallow waters along the Panaga beach were filled with small jellyfish. Each catch that the fishermen brought ashore contained at least 50 small jellyfish. Basically, the Panaga beach was littered with hundreds of them. We certainly decided to skip our traditional Friday afternoon swim in the sea.

The spectacular fellow pictured here is just one of hundreds of magnificent creatures frequently encountered by members of Panaga's Sub-aqua Club.

Commonly known by divers as "lion fish", for the mane-like fins, it is in fact one of a variety of the family Scorpaenidae, or scorpionfish. Easily approached and photographed by divers they remain mostly stationary during daylight, but it is wise for the diver to know a little about this fish as the family obtain their name from the venomous fin spines possessed by many of the species. Wounds from the spines vary from bee-sting intensity to unbelievable agony and are usually treated by immersing the injured limb in very hot water to alleviate the pain.

Scorpionfishes are usually seen during the day hovering solitary, in pairs or family groups jealously guarding their territory. They spend a lot of time resting on the sea bottom. Scorpionfishes often exhibit varied colour patterns that blend well with their surroundings, thus enabling them to remain undetected by their prey. At night, they come out of the corners of platform bracings or crevices in reefs to feed, mostly on crustaceans, but also on other fish.

Fishes have many mechanisms to escape predators. Some are engineered to swim fast and depend essentially on speed to escape predators or successfully hunt prey. Others cannot swim fast but depend on manoeuvrability in order to escape. Among slow swimmers, many other protective mechanisms are employed. There are those which can puff up their bodies so that they become to large to swallow; there are those which have defensive spines which may or may not be connected to toxin glands; there are those which are effectively camouflaged or have bright warning colours; there are those which have a tough armoured body; and there are those whose body shape enables them to weave in and out of narrow crevasses. Because of these adaptations, fishes exhibit an amazing variety in shape and colour.

The fish pictured here, Pterois volitans, has no less than 44 to 46 separate fins or 'rays', a body with brown to blackish bars alternating with very narrow whitish-to-pale red interspaces; a head with similar bands, continuing onto the breast.

Scorpionfishes are found in all temperate and tropical seas and are commercially important in some areas. Most of the estimated 350 species and 70 genera occur here in the Indo-Pacific region.

If you would like a chance to see these and literally thousands of other spectacular creatures of local Brunei waters, contact the Panaga Sub Aqua club.

Figure 4 Under the sea: A Red Lionfish

In May 1989 a sick dolphin was washed up on the beach close to Seria. After four days of care, it died, was humanely destroyed, and the body donated to the Department of Zoology at the University of Brunei Darussalam. This dolphin was identified as long-snouted spinner (Stenella longirostris), a species previously unrecorded in Borneo waters.

It was the interest stimulated by this dolphin and the realisation of our unique position to study the marine life in offshore waters that led to the Seawatch project. This report has been made possible by the recording of observations over a period of 17 months by a network of interested individuals.

Bearing in mind that these observers were all amateurs with a disparate range of observational skills, our objectives were simple. Firstly to record, and if possible identify, marine animals in offshore Brunei waters, and secondly, to document any seasonal variation in abundance of specific species.

The identification itself was anything but simple and we relied heavily on assistance from various specialist groups who provided us with reference material and in many cases help with species identification from photographs. Having said that, expertise and enthusiasm increased as the year progressed and our 'aerial' spotters were able to positively identify bryde's whales in April 1990, whilst our offshore amateur naturalist very soon got to grips with dolphin identification and made some interesting observations on behaviour.

The largest number of individual sea turtles were seen during April 1990, but these were almost all unidentified and it could be that observer interest in recording unidentified species waned as time progressed so it is difficult to draw any conclusions from this. However, there was a very distinct 'leap' in numbers at the end of August/early September 1990 and although the turtles were not identified, this movement coincides with the end of the main nesting season of Chelonia mydas on the Sarawak Talang Talang Islands and islands off the coast of W. Kalimantan in Indonesia. There is speculation, as yet uncorroborated, that green turtles nesting in these areas have their foraging grounds in the Sulu Sea or somewhere in the Southern Philippines, perhaps migrating up and down the coast of NW Borneo.

This area of our project seems to have generated a great deal of interest and is perhaps where our effort could be directed in the future. The Panaga Natural History Society does not have the facilities or expertise to extend the project, or even sustain it in its present form. It is however very rewarding that this project initiated by the PNHS is being continued by the Natural History Section of the Brunei Museum. The PNHS will, however, also continue to look out for significant movements of sea animals and identify and report as a contribution to regional and international conservation efforts.

Figure 5 Long-snouted Spinner. Photographed by Jen Elkin on Panaga beach.

Many people think of sharks as mean and menacing, with their pointed snouts, fearsome teeth, and staring eyes. Sharks are skilled predators, but only a few are a danger to people. The 375 or so species of sharks range in size from the lantern shark at about 20 cms long to the whale shark at over 12 m long, but half of the species are less than l m long.

Not all sharks are as streamlined as the spinner shark. Angel sharks have flattened bodies, horn sharks are blunt-headed, while bamboo sharks are long and flexible. All sharks belong to a single class of fish called Chondrichthyes, having skeletons made of gristle-like cartilage.

Many species of sharks have been observed in the Brunei waters. The Sea Watch project recorded observations of whale shark, sandtiger shark, tiger shark, blacktip reef shark, whitetip reef shark, ganges shark, great hammerhead, tawny nurse shark, brown-banded bamboo shark, and the slender bamboo shark.

There was for example a marked seasonal influx of the filter-feeding whale shark (Rhincodon typos) during the Northeast monsoon season, December 1989 to March 1990, confirming a pattern which helicopter pilots had noticed over a number of years. On the 22nd December 1989 the first whale shark was spotted and the observer noted on the report form "first of the season - krill also spotted". Whale sharks move in with the South-westerly current and often krill is spotted from the air when these animals are seen. Of the nine whale sharks seen during the period, six were spotted from the air, and divers close to offshore oil platforms encountered three underwater. One was photographed with an accompanying 'flotilla' of smaller fish. The largest whale shark seen measured approximately 8m and the smallest 3-4m.

People kill sharks, for their meat, fins, skin, and liver oil as well as for pure sport. Sports fishing can reduce shark numbers in tourist resort areas, but the biggest threat to sharks world-wide is finning. The sharks are caught on long lines or in some areas fishing nets, hauled onto one of the many little boats, where all of the fins are removed from the torso. As the fins are what the fishermen are after, the rest of the shark is thrown back overboard to suffer the fate of drowning, for it is the forward movement of the shark that allows it to breathe. Without fins and the ability to swim, the shark drowns.

Sharks may have had bad press for many years, but they are part of the delicate balance of nature. It is hard to put sensible limits on the number of sharks that can safely be fished because little is known about their ecology. Compared to bony fishes, sharks are especially at risk of exploitation by humans due mainly to their slower rate of reproduction and length of time to mature. If too many are killed their numbers may never recover. Efforts are being made now to protect sharks by creating reserves, restricting numbers caught by tourists, and banning finning completely.

Only seven species of sea turtles exist in the oceans of the world today. For millions of years they have moved through the seas, perfectly adapted, with few natural enemies. Man is the only threat to the continued existence of these graceful reptiles, whose numbers have fallen dramatically over the last century because of the decimation of nesting colonies. The sea turtle, once a dominant life form in coastal waters, has become an endangered species.

Desperate efforts are now being made in the South East Asian region to protect the turtles and, as an indication that they mean business, armed guards protect the hatcheries on the turtle islands off the coast of Sabah where green and hawksbill turtles nest. Elsewhere in Sabah, egg collection is tendered to licensed egg collectors, and turtle-hunting is strictly prohibited. Enforcement and control however are difficult because of the remoteness of some of the islands.

In Sarawak, the turtle population continues to decline. In 1936, three million eggs were laid on the three main nesting islands off the Sarawak coast. In 1987 this was down to around 200 thousand. Egg collection is managed solely by the Sarawak Turtles Board, which markets only green turtle eggs, returning a proportion of the hatchlings to the sea, along with these of other species, which are not marketed. In July of 1988, laws prohibiting the smuggling of turtle eggs into the State were tightened up in an attempt to keep the management of the turtles and their eggs within the licensed control of the Turtles Board.

Here in Brunei, all sea turtles are protected species, although once again, enforcement is a problem. There are beaches at Lumut, Seria, Tutong and Muara where turtles are known to nest but gradual development of the coastal areas has meant that there are fewer suitable sites than in previous years. The suitability of a beach can be affected by, for instance, the construction of concrete walls to prevent erosion. Even beach umbrellas and the planting of trees for shade can affect the critical male/female ratio, since the temperature of the nest determines the sex of the hatchlings. Sadly though, many turtle eggs have no chance of reaching the hatchling stage. Most coastal-dwelling people know when the conditions are right for the turtles and, for many, the long migration to the nesting beach will be a futile one. Egg-laying on Brunei beaches is, however, comparatively small-scale and sporadic and Brunei beaches cannot be considered a major nesting area. Nevertheless, it is an integral part of a much wider regional pattern, the continuity of which is in jeopardy. As recently as 1989, action by the BSP Environment Advisor was required to ensure that turtle eggs could no longer be found for sale at Brunei Shell filling stations. In 1997, these ping pong ball like eggs are still found for sale on various markets in the country.

It is vital that if an endangered species is to be saved, as much basic information as possible on the breeding patterns must be sought. This is not as easy as it sounds; turtles are elusive creatures, migrating between feeding grounds and traditional nesting beaches. Marine biologists in Australia have, for several years, been confused by the wild fluctuations in the numbers of female green turtles arriving each year at certain known beaches (males never leave the water). The reason, amazingly enough, seems to lie with the weather conditions two years prior to the nesting. The very latest research has found that the number of females nesting in any one year could be correlated with atmospheric pressure two years prior to the nesting season (Australian Journal of Wildlife Research Vol.15). The researchers suspect that atmospheric pressure in some way affects the ability of females to lay down enough fat reserves to even get started on the egg producing process. The fluctuation, however, seems to be peculiar to the green turtle - an almost totally herbivorous species. Edward Banks, a former curator of the Sarawak Museum, also noticed that 'crashes' in the number of green turtle eggs in Sarawak in 1900, 1934 and 1950 followed particularly wet summers. Certainly with its wide range around the world, the green turtle has tremendous potential for research into climatic conditions.

In the vast oceans of the world, sea turtles have evolved into specialist feeders and so offer little competition to each other (with the exception perhaps of the loggerhead and olive ridley, which rarely co-exist). Of the species which occur in the tropical waters around Borneo, the green turtle, as already mentioned, is mainly a herbivore, eating sea grasses and algae. The olive ridley feeds on small crustaceans. The hawksbill, famous for the ornamental 'tortoiseshell' lives around coral reefs feeding on sponges, sea squirts, molluscs, etc. and the leatherback has a diet consisting mainly of jellyfish.

Unlike other turtles, the sea turtles are unable to retract either head or limbs. It is perhaps for this reason that they have evolved a completely 'roofed over' head - an effective protection against predators and sharp corals. Breathing presents special problems since the rigid shell prevents the chest movements necessary for pumping air into and out of the lungs. Quite how they do it is not fully understood (with other turtles the retraction of head and limbs helps the breathing flow) but certain modifications allow the turtles to tolerate high levels of carbon dioxide in the blood and they reduce their demand for oxygen when diving by slowing down their heartbeat.

In the ocean, the turtles surge along on powerful wing-like beats of the fore-flippers, steering and stabilising with the hind flippers, but on land these do not perform well and the turtles and their eggs become easy prey. The green turtle, once abundant in tropical waters, provided a useful supply of fresh meat for the sailing ships of the last century; a supply also exploited by the occupying Japanese forces as recently as 1941-45. Little wonder that over the years, entire colonies of nesting green turtles have been completely wiped out.

The green turtle gets its name from the body fat which is green as a result of the sea grass it eats. From feeding grounds in the Pacific and Indian oceans they migrate to traditional nesting beaches once every three years after maturity which is estimated at around 20-30 years of age. The long coastline of Sarawak, Brunei and Sabah no longer suit the green turtle for this purpose. They would once have been common, even at Kuala Belait, but, as far back as the stone age (turtle remains are numerous in the Niah Caves) their numbers were devastated and the slow retreat to the offshore islands began. Adults, however, are often seen well out in Brunei Bay, especially around small coral reefs and islands to the west of Labuan. One advantage the green turtle has over others in Borneo waters is that people in this part of the world do not like the meat. The eggs though are another matter!

It is a curious fact that semi-grown individuals of the leatherback turtle (which nests on the East coast of peninsular Malaysia) and the olive ridley (which is known to nest on Brunei beaches) are almost never seen. So the tens of thousands of these hatchlings which strike boldly out to sea from beaches around the world just disappear for many years. Where do they go? Who knows, but let us hope that this ancient group of reptiles, almost unchanged since the giant Archelon glided through the cretaceous seas a hundred million years ago, will recover enough to sustain populations for a few more million years.

On some off-shore platforms it is common to find sea snakes at the boat landing, which is very close to the sea level and where some of these can climb. However, it was very surprising to find them at higher levels, more than 20 metres above the water, where they could not possibly climb. When we found a sea snake on the top of an off-shore crane, it was really puzzling.

The sea snake (family Hydrophiinae) we found was the amphibious sea snake (Laticauda colubrina). Unlike other sea snakes, Laticauda species lay their eggs in the sand, leaving them to hatch, instead of giving birth to live young. They feed on fish and eels. They are partially terrestrial, occasionally found considerable distance from the sea. This is why they are considered by some people as a separate family, named the 'sea kraits'. They are very similar to kraits in anatomy and even the chemical composition of their venom. However, by their adaptations to life in the sea, they have become sufficiently different to be classified in separate families.

The amphibious sea snakes are the most primitive or least adapted sea snakes with a compressed tail like an oar. Their belly scales are large and broad like those of normal terrestrial snakes. They can get out of the water sometimes for sunning themselves and for laying their eggs on the beach or on a reef and even on some jetties. These snakes are the ones that we see on the platform landings.

Other sea snakes, however, have become so adapted that they have lost any ability to get out of the water. Their muscles and bone structure are only strong enough for moving and swimming when supported by the water, but not enough for lifting any part of their body out of the water. If stranded on the beach, they soon die of suffocation, since they cannot crawl back to the water. They cannot even overcome their own weight for breathing. If a sea snake is picked up by its tail, it will not be able to pull its body up and reach the hand that is holding it for a bite. However, it could bite any other part, like a foot, if the handler is careless enough to let its head come too close. If you find a sea snake on the beach and it is still alive, try to return it to the water without injuring it and without being bitten yourself. Sea snakes can be recognised easily because the scales on their belly are small, the same size as those on the back, and with the same shape. Also their nostrils are located high on top of the head which makes breathing easier when the snake rises to the surface for air.

In contrast, the amphibious sea snake still have large scales on the belly, similar to those of any other snake and most lizards, which are very helpful for crawling.

As mentioned, the amphibious sea snakes were seen on several off-shore platforms. How could they have reached the top of a platform crane? Well, they were carried up there by the sea eagles. From the same platforms where you can find sea snakes and fishes in a most unlikely place you can also see the big white bellied sea eagles, Haliaeetus leucogaster, patrolling the water below. From time to time they dive down to just above the water and grab a snake or a fish with their feet. The platforms become a convenient place to perch for eating their prey.

Without the oil platforms, these eagles could not venture so far off the coast. The platforms have considerably extended the hunting range of the sea eagles.

Amphibious sea snake on the beach. Photographed by Bernhardine Prins.

While most of us would associate life on the platforms with drilling engineers and geologists, a recent survey of an offshore well jacket in the Champion field proved it can often be much more diverse. When BSP staff were conducting a survey of the well jacket, they were surprised to find a carefully constructed nest built on a structural flange. It was an artistically and skilfully crafted little assemblage of welding rods, steel wires, pieces of electrical cables, plastic cable clips, plastic bands and many other items of scrap.

The three bluish grey eggs in the nest belonged to a mangrove heron - also known as a green heron. In Malay, the bird is known as pucong bakau, pucong keladi or bangau keladi. It was not long before the bird returned to the well jacket carrying a piece of thin wire in her beak.

As the Champion field is some 15 miles away from shore, the poor bird could not find any of the vegetable materials normally used to make nests. Instead she used whatever she could find from the refuse skips on the nearby platforms.

Unfortunately, she was scared by our presence, so while we worked, she only circled the platform watching us. As soon as we boarded the boat and departed, she went back to her nest. What made the sighting more unusual is that this type of bird normally lives near mangrove forests. It feeds on small fish, crabs and other small water creatures. However, this particular individual has been able to adapt to life offshore and not only lives on the platforms, but it also breeds there.

Platform designs provide the birds with small but adequate fishing grounds courtesy of the two small decks built at different levels for personnel transfer to and from boats. The lower of these two landing decks, which are made of steel grating, is normally submerged for several hours each day at high tide so it becomes encrusted with barnacles, oysters, corals, weeds and other marine life. On this attached growth there are also many visiting small animals such as crabs, marine worms and snails. Fish often rest under the shade of the decks and on some platforms even sea snakes have been found all providing ample food for the herons.

Charlotte Donkin was lucky enough to be amongst a group of children who played with two dolphins off Kuraman beach early 1991. Dolphins are known, on rare occasions, to seek out the company of children but this is nevertheless a remarkable story, and best told by Charlotte herself.........

"Twelve divers and eight children went out to Kuraman (island off Labuan) for a long weekend. At about six o'clock in the morning, those who where awake saw two five-foot long dolphins playing in the water about ten metres away from the beach. Some of us decided to go and swim with them. They came closer to the beach and every now and then, the waves brought them on the beach. We took them out to the sea again. They played with us children and made funny squeaking noises. They weren't so keen on adults. After about half an hour, they went away to play in a rock pool further around the island. The dolphin's skin was smooth and nice to touch".

Dolphins are very active during the day, often jumping and playing in the water. They mostly feed at night on deep-sea fish and squid. The following report of the night behaviour of the long-snouted spinner dolphin is recorded at offshore location FADP1 over a period of 10 days in August 1990.

We saw the long-snouted spinner dolphins most evenings and assumed them to be the same group. The dolphins would appear alongside the platform soon after it became dark. We saw them often chasing flying fish. These fish, on touching down on the water could then take off again in the opposite direction, i.e. back on themselves 180 degrees, directly over the head of the chasing dolphin. This then caused the dolphin to stop, turn around and head off back again.

They always came and "used" our leeward side for chasing and fishing. Once again, I'm sure that they chase flying fish for sport rather than food. Twice in the last week I have seen a dolphin swimming with a large fish that it had caught in its mouth. These were too big to be the flying fish that we see here. No attempt, that I could see, was made to eat the fish. The smaller fish they catch appear to be eaten on the spot. They seem to use the barge as a wall to which they can pen in fish. No doubt our lights shining out over the surrounding sea gives them an added bonus as they seem to stay within sight of it, working their way from one end to the other.

On an occasion, I watched a single dolphin playing and chasing a flying fish along our side for about twenty minutes. In the end, when the flying fish accidentally hit one of our anchor racks (that protrude at sea level from the bow and stern) he dropped back into the sea, no doubt dead. The dolphin just swam up, nudged him, realised his toy was dead and swam off. No attempt was made to eat it.

The long-snouted spinner dolphins tend to swim deep (except when chasing flying fish) or stay just below the surface, possibly looking for fish that they could then drive up to the surface. Here it was possible sometimes to see three or four dolphins all converge onto the fish, with an ensuing commotion. It would appear that, often when chasing the fish very close to the surface, the dolphins would swim upside down. This they seemed to do quite often. Sometimes on coming up they would blow out water. Also sometimes they would come straight up vertically out of the water up to their flippers or tail, then roll over and swim off.

On one occasion they came past our stern just before dark, there was very little swell running at the time. One dolphin came out of the water almost vertically about 5ft, spun slightly, cleared about 6-8ft, touched the surface, and went up again. He did this four times, the last skip being far less distant than the previous three. I saw this done three times with a few minutes in between each exhibition. Even the little one tried coming out of the water a couple of feet on two occasions.

Brunei Shell staff joined in the battle to save the lives of two whales on the beach near the Anduki air strip on April 19 1996. Both were very young; one of them was wounded.

The two whales came to shore and were spotted by two passers-by who tried to rescue the creatures. Working tirelessly, the rescuers managed to guide one of the two whales back out into deeper water and coaxed it to swim away. The second whale proved a tougher challenge. The rescuers, with water up to their necks, had taken the whale out to swim, but it just kept coming back into shore. Despite hours of hard work, the rescuers were unable to save the second whale and sadly it died.

There are a number of theories as to why whale strandings occur. Some stranded whales are already injured, sick or old, yet apparently healthy whales still strand. Possible explanations include confusion of the whale's sound echo sonar system caused by shifting sand banks, noise pollution from boat engines, disruption by radio signals, storms or underwater earthquakes. Unfortunately it is very seldom that stranded whales can be saved: if brought back to the water, they will repeatedly beach themselves.

The whales have been identified as pygmy sperm whales (Kogia breviceps), and were described by witnesses as having a low dorsal fin, a black upper body, and a reddish belly. Intriguingly, the field guide to the Mammals of Borneo mentions that these whales spend much time in shallow water, and are "frequently stranded".

The sperm whales (family Physeteridae) include one of the largest as well as some of the smallest whales. The pygmy sperm whale, of the same family as the giant sperm whale, is known to live in tropical and temperate waters around the world. Very little is known about the numbers or biology of these creatures as they are rarely seen at sea and are known mainly from their infrequent strandings. They are deep divers and feed mainly on squid and octopus, but small fishes and crabs are also eaten.

In the past few years, the most common whale sightings in the region have been of short-finned pilot whales (Globicephala macrorhynchus). Apparently this instance is the first reported sighting of pygmy sperm whales in Brunei. BSP helicopter pilots have not reported any sighting of other whales around that time, so what could have happened to the mother of the two young remains a mystery.

Figure 6 Stranded Pygmy Sperm Whale at Anduki beach. Photo by Mohd. Zufri b Mohd Bakhtiar.

A lot of animal observations can be made on or around the beach. These include the marine animals visiting the beaches for example to lay their eggs and the animals that typically live on the beach. Birds are easily observed on the mudflats at low tide, ideally from any of the PNHS birdhides. Observing animals in the mangrove area is much more difficult. The Panaga beach, though not spectacular, always has something to offer. If you walk every morning or evening on the beach, there will be something to see, be it just the lively hermit crabs, some small shells, or the occasional stranded turtle. Good beaches for animal sightings are the more quiet and more beautiful Anduki, Sungai Liang, and Rasau beaches.

A quiet stroll on Panaga beach could bring you a step closer to prehistoric times with the encounter of a horseshoe crab. The horseshoe crabs are an ancient group; fossils date back 220 million years to the Triassic period. Horseshoe crabs are probably derived from the trilobites, a relationship that is suggested by the appearance of their larvae.

We found one of these unusual creatures washed ashore on Panaga Beach near E9 and soon discovered other people had sighted these spiny animals. Horseshoe crabs are not true crabs although they belong to the Arthropod group of animals in that they have a segmented, jointed body with an external skeletal shell.

They fact that they are probably the only living relative of the trilobite is important in evolutionary history as these were the first creatures on earth to develop high-definition eyes and soon became the dominant animals, diversifying into some 10,000 species. However, about 250 million years ago, they became extinct and today the four species of horseshoe crab are then their only descendants.

The horseshoe crab is generally bigger than most trilobites and its armour no longer shows any signs of the segmentation which is such a feature of its ancestors. Instead, it forms a dome shaped shield on the top of which are two ophthalmic ridges. In the middle of these ridges are the multi-lensed eyes of the creature. A plate-like abdomen, hinged to the back of the shield, carries a sharp spike of a tail. On the underside of the shell, the crab has several pairs of jointed legs with pincers at the ends. Behind the legs are plate-like gills.

Horseshoe crabs live in both South East Asian waters and along the North Atlantic coast of America. Three species live in this part of the world; two being common - the small smooth-tailed Carcinoscorpius with a diameter up to 15 cms, and the larger Tachypleus gigas with a diameter up to 25 cms, a serrated tail and triangular in cross section. It was the larger variety which was found at Panaga.

The horseshoe crab can walk along the sea floor but also swims with its uppermost legs inclined at about 30 degrees to the horizontal. It is also capable of crawling for short distances on land to mate. They are nocturnal creatures and spend up to 12 hours of the day burrowed below the sediment surface.

In a recent study, medical scientists extracted a substance from the blood of the horseshoe crab which can be used to detect certain bacterial toxins in humans, leading to the early treatment of patients. Knowledge of horseshoe crabs in Brunei remains limited.

Figure 7 Creature of the past: a Horseshoe Crab, photographed by Alan Grant

It is not too common, on the Panaga beach, to encounter large and attractive seashells but, at times, the sea spills its treasury. Our eyes are captivated by the shapes of these once-colourful skeletons and our mind wonders: "where do you come from, small animal? what has been your life" ?

There are two main types of seashells, those that are made of one piece, the gastropods, and those that are made of two pieces articulated by a joint, the bivalves - both types belong to the bigger group of "molluscs". Often, the two pieces of the bivalves separated after the death of the animal and we find only half of the animal's shell. The inside of a bivalve, you have surely seen if you have eaten a mussel, a clam, an oyster, or a scallop. The strong fleshy foot is used by the animal to move (or attach itself) on rocks, mud or sand. Bivalves are mainly herbivorous; they feed by filtering small particles from the water.

Although some of the primitive -and often sedentary- gastropods graze on algae or filter plankton (abalones, limpets, turbans, conch), most of them, in contrast to bivalves, are aggressive carnivorous feeders. The mouth is usually equipped with small horny jaws and a hooked rasping tongue (radula). Some of the carnivorous gastropods tap the juices of sea anemones or starfish. Others have a radula that is strong enough to bore a hole into another seashell and suck the soft insides -the reason why some shells washed on the beach are intact except for a very neat circular hole. In the Conidae family, the radula has the shape of a hollow harpoon through which a poison is injected into the prey (usually a fish). One of the most attractive cone shell (Conus textile) is also the most poisonous: the radula can pierce a wet suit and the poison injected can cause the death of a human.

As for body shape, the gastropods of the sea are similar to the gastropods of the land, the common land snails: a large foot that allows them to glide and be very mobile, two retractable tentacles, and a (often) spiralled shell.

The beauty of living seashells does not only reside in the shapes and colours of their shells but often also in the vivid colorations and patterns of the fleshy body itself: fluorescent blues, bright yellows, vivid reds, stripes, dots... Not only divers and snorkellers have the pleasure of admiring live seashells: seashells are found in a variety of habitats, from deep sea to coral reefs to sandy, muddy or rocky shores. At low tide, the glossy olive shells (Olividae) can be seen gliding at quite high speed (for a snail !) on the Panaga beach, leaving behind characteristic trails. Not further than Sungai Seria, the tracks of Cerithidea cingulata (which looks like a reddish long spiral) draw attractive patterns on the mudflat of the mangrove as the animals wander in search of food.

If you find an attractive shell on the beach, check first if a hermit crab hasn't already claimed it for its house - most of the shells are inhabited ! If the shell contains either its primary occupant (the snail) or a small crab, don't take it home, let these animals follow their life path, observe how they live. If the shell is empty and you chose to collect it, try to find out what was the life of the animal that built it. The Panaga library and the Panaga Natural History have a few good books on seashells as well as a reference seashell collection.

Most people know crabs as creatures with a hard skin and articulated legs which live in the sea. Although most crabs spend their lives in seawater, some have adapted to other habitats such as brackish water, river water or even dry land. Those adapted to 'dry life' come in various types.

Some of them can spend certain periods of time outside the water but they must regularly return in to keep their gills wet, without which they cannot breathe. They also have to go into the water for breeding because their eggs and larvae are aquatic. And they must return to the water when they moult. When they shed the old skin, the new one is so soft that it needs hardening by absorbing a lot of calcium. They find this in sea water in the form of calcium sulphate, which they transform into calcium carbonate. You can find the crabs on any beach. But they flee in the sea or dig themselves in the sand as soon they feel the vibrations of you coming close.

There are other crabs that come out of the water regularly but only for a few minutes at a time. They include reef crabs Pachygrapsus marmoratus and other members of the family Grapsidae. They walk about on rocks in the splash zone, eating little algae and small planktonic creatures which are dumped by the waves or simply are remains of decaying organic matter.

Still other crabs can stay slightly longer periods outside the water e.g. the ghost crabs Ocypode cerathophtalma, the soldier crabs (family Ocypodidae) which live in sandy beaches, and fiddler crabs which live in mudflats. These crabs all dig deep burrows down to the water table where they can go bathing regularly.

But the champions of the dry environment are the land crabs of the family Caenobitidae. They use a dead seasnail shell as a portable house. This habit of living alone in a little house has earned the latter the name of hermit crabs and there are names such as Pagurus bernardus in honour of St. Bernard, or the genus Diogenes, after the Greek philosopher who used to live in a wooden barrel.

The Caenobitid crabs have adapted to a dry environment to such an extent that they can live out of the water for months! Except for the giant coconut crab Birgus latro, all use a snail shell. As they do not live far away from the sea, they normally use sea shells, and only incidentally those of land snails if these are available (which is not the case on most oceanic islands). Every time they moult they have to visit the water. They can seize the opportunity and find a larger seasnail shell. The Caenobitid crabs have very strong legs and claws as they must move their portable house out of the water where it is heavier. Their bites are particularly sharp, more than those of any other crab of their size. But they have attractive shapes and normally beautiful and brilliant colours. They also move very gracefully.

Land crabs can be seen very early in the morning and late in the evenings (and at dark) between the bushes near the beach. Just walk on the beach at Panaga or Anduki, or anywhere else, and you will see them running away or tracking themselves back in their portable home.

Because it has chosen to live in brackish waters, between freshwater rivers and sea, the walking fish is seldom mentioned in books. Indeed, a leading English-language dictionary does it little justice when it mentions only that it is a "rather small fish". In fact, the walking fish, also commonly known as the mudskipper, is a remarkable anomaly of evolution: it is a fish which spends about three-quarters of its life on land, yet returns to the water for refuge and family life. Its motivation is a very pragmatic one: the search for its staple food, insects.

Many species of fish strive on insects, and have different ways to catch them. Some wait until insects fly so low above the surface of the water that they can be captured in one big gulp; other fish bring the insects down by spurting a jet of water at them; yet others jump out of the water or unfold a surprisingly long and sticky tongue to catch the insects. None of these fish has the reach of the mudskipper, which goes and hunts the insects where they live - in air and on land. The fish walks to a strategically chosen spot which offers good camouflage, such as a patch of mud, a stone, or a rugose root, and waits patiently. When an insect flies by, it gobbles it in one lightning-fast movement of the head.

To sustain such a lifestyle, the mudskipper has had to develop some highly original characteristics. To breathe in both air and water, it has developed an accessory breathing apparatus. To walk and jump, it uses its fleshy pectoral fins. Perhaps most remarkably, to see, it has bifocal eyes: the lower half is for seeing in water, and the upper half in air. The eyes extrude from the head and can be oriented at will, thereby providing the mudskipper with global vision.

Mudskippers are not quite the only kind of walking fish: a few others in their family and even certain catfish can go for a short stroll. However, the mudskippers are the most skilled at living in air; they can also jump and even climb up stones or mangrove roots, if these provide a good look-out point.

Mudskippers are found exclusively in the brackish waters of the old world tropics. These include tidal mangrove swamps and mudflats, and conveniently for residents of the Seria area, we have many of them between Seria and Anduki. Especially the trail along the mudflats of the Anduki Jubilee Recreational Park is convenient for observations. You have to go at low tide. If you approach a bit too quickly, you will see the mudskippers literally dive from their vantage point back to the safety of their underwater burrow. If you want to see them as clearly and closely as on this picture, you will have to be very slow and patient. Other good tips for the mudskipper-watcher: wear brown or dark green-coloured clothes, use binoculars to see without intruding, and ... beware of insects!

Caption:

Mudskipper (Gobiida periophthalmus) on the lookout for insect preys in the mudflats of Anduki. Photography by Béatrice Prost.

The tidal mudflats of the region are popular with birdwatchers, but this animal is probably more interested in snatching birds than in snapping them. Although sometimes mistaken for a crocodile by emotive beach-goers, the monitor lizard (Varanus salvator), or biawak as it is called here, is more closely related to our domestic chichak, and almost as inoffensive.

Monitor lizards normally measure one half to two metres in total length, with the tail accounting for over half that. Juveniles have a yellow-dotted skin, but adults have a dark green robe, which provides them with camouflage even in the open: they can spend their days nearly motionless, on the mudflats or at the water's edge, stalking preys and enjoying the sun at the same time.

The monitor lizards' skin is scaly but sleek, and surprisingly dry to the touch, much like that of snakes. In fact, lizards and snakes are closely related, and consequently classified in the same order. Some lizards that live underground have lost their limbs, and others have no ears. Snakes are believed to have evolved from a family of lizards, which has a single representative species surviving today. It is the exceedingly rare earless monitor, or Bornean lizard, which has only ever been found in Sarawak. As its name indicates, it has no external ears. Also, like snakes, it has a highly protrusible forked tongue, and is not able to regenerate its tail. A characteristic of all monitors, unique among lizards, is the ability to drop their lower jaw, thereby greatly increasing their mouth capacity, like pythons and some other snakes.

Monitor lizards such as the one pictured here are a rather common sight along river banks and on the mudflats. You may be able to see one on your first visit to any of the PNHS birdhides. You may as well find their tracks in the sand on the Anduki or Sungai Liang beaches. In urban areas, they are found along drains. They have learned to benefit from the proximity of humans: they enjoy scavenging through the rubbish heaps, and once in a while, they even indulge in a chicken. Monitors are rather omnivorous: they will eat fish, small mammals, birds, turtle eggs, fallen fruit, etc. In return, they are quite commonly hunted for food in the rural areas. It is actually suspected that in some places, they were introduced as a source of food, for instance in Polynesia.

Around here, monitors are not dangerous to humans: if disturbed, they will usually run away fast, enter the water with a big splash, or climb a tree equally swiftly. However, if cornered, monitor lizards can panic and whip their tail strongly enough to break an adult person's leg. Only one species of the monitor lizard family is truly dangerous: the Komodo dragon, which grows to three metres long, and is aggressively carnivorous. Thankfully, this monster is found only in Komodo, a small archipelago in Eastern Indonesia.

Monitor lizard (Varanus salvator) prowling about the Anduki mudflats. Photographed by Gustavo Ugueto.

While we humans are slowly realising the significance of biological diversity to the survival of our own species, much of this diversity is disappearing fast. Sea turtles have been around for eighty million years, and during that time, they have not found it necessary to evolve much, being already superbly adapted to their life as marine reptiles. In the past few decades, however, their environment has changed so dramatically, mainly under the pressure of human activities, that the sea turtles are driven to the brink of extinction.

This hawksbill turtle was found dead at the water's edge on Panaga's E9 Beach on March 24 1997. Its size was about 60 centimetre in carapace length. The cause of death was not immediately clear, but is likely to have been unnatural. The turtle may have drowned in a fisherman's net, collided with a boat, choked on floating garbage, or become ill from a viral infection. Other threats to the turtles here and all over include: the development of their nesting beaches, the disappearance of seagrass beds and coral reefs (turtles of the region feed mainly on seagrass and algae), and ever-more harvesting of the turtles and their eggs. This year, we found several dead turtles on the Panaga beach.

Sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs on beaches in tropical areas world-wide. Several species come to Brunei beaches; green turtles have been sighted on Panaga - as have egg poachers.

Just like in neighbouring Sabah, marine turtles could be a valuable asset to the tourism industry of Brunei Darussalam. If we protect the nesting beaches, coral reefs, seagrass beds, and migration corridors, the full coastal ecosystem will benefit; increasing numbers of marine turtles would make Brunei their abode.

We can all help to save marine turtles through small and simple steps. First, we should refrain from eating turtle eggs and meat. Second, we should avoid products made of turtle shell, such as ornaments, combs, etc.; or flesh, such as turtle oil or wax. Third, we should not drive our cars on beaches, so as not to crush the nests. Fourth, we must not litter, at sea, on the beach, or anywhere - since much of the litter ends up in the sea eventually. Finally, let us introduce sea turtles to our children. The gentle giants' "flight" in the water, the egg-laying process, and the emergence of turtle hatchlings from the sand, are all remarkable and unforgettable spectacles which can still be observed in the wild in North Borneo. For how long depends on all of us.

It was in 1996, on one of the last nights of February, that I spotted a marine turtle on the Panaga beach at E1 as it was emerging from the sea and climbing onto the beach, presumably to dig a nest and lay a batch of eggs. I observed as it crawled beyond the high tide line, collided with a log, turned around towards the sea, back again to try another spot. Its shell was about 65 cm long, regular and nearly-circular in shape. Most likely, this sea turtle was an olive ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea). I decided to call a few nature-loving friends, and ran to a telephone; on the way, I noticed a couple of sedan-type cars cruising slowly up and down the beach.

As the friends and I returned to the beach, we saw another turtle of the same species. The driver of one of the cars joined us to watch that turtle enter the surf and swim away; presumably it had just laid its eggs. We then went back to the original turtle, but could not find it. The trail marks in the sand, however, told the story: the turtle had finally found a suitable nest site, had started to dig, but it got interrupted by the blinding lights of the car. It crawled back towards the sea, but was picked up half-way by the driver, and thrown in the boot of the car. We realised that the turtle was on its way to the cooking pot, and also that our presence had interfered with the kidnapping of another turtle.

Olive ridley turtles are locally common, but globally nearing extinction. In a modern country where neither locals nor guest residents depend on hunting and gathering for subsistence, we were shocked that such ignorant and destructive behaviour still occurred. I suspect this may have something to do with the ancient belief that turtle flesh is reinvigorating and possibly even aphrodisiac.

As we left the beach, one last glance behind our shoulder revealed that the same car had returned to the point from where the second turtle got away, and stopped, all lights off. Were the occupants waiting for the turtle to land again, or were they going to dig out the eggs? Possibly both.

Why do so many people believe that turtle meat (and shark's fin, puffer fish, etc.) are aphrodisiac? In older days, simple people were led to believe that certain sea food had extraordinary virtues by salesmen and witch doctors, and that the rarer the life-form, the more potent an aphrodisiac it was. If this sounds like a business scam, it's because it is one. The old belief, however, has an element of truth: modern science has established that all sea food contains certain chemicals which, when eaten, give much "energy" and allow physical efforts to be sustained longer. This is true of absolutely every form of protein from the sea. In other words, there is no more libido in a turtle steak, a coral fish fillet, or a shark's fin, than there is in a tin of sardines or a fish stick. Eating puffer fish doesn't make one spiky, and eating sea cow doesn't make one horny.

In Brunei, all sea turtles are protected, and taking a turtle is a crime. This particular incident was reported to the local authorities for them to take the appropriate action. Be a crime-stopper! If you too witness the poaching of a turtle or of eggs, you can report it to the PNHS and we will forward. Be sure to record: the date, time, and precise location of the event, the number and name of witnesses, the poacher's car registration number, and the exact observations you made (i.e. did you see the poaching with your own eyes, or just some evidence that it happened?). You can also help without commitment, simply by going to walk on the beach in the evening: if you see a crawl in the sand, you might be lucky to watch a turtle nesting - and poachers will hesitate to take a turtle if you are around. For the turtle's sake, stay behind her (where she cannot see you), don't speak loudly, and don't use a torch.

Just a few nights ago, there was beauty on the beach. Unfortunately, there were beasts also.

In a number of cultures around the world, the creation myth features a crab diving repeatedly to the bottom of the sea, and coming up each time with a small amount of earth; thus is land created, for all creatures that live on it. To this day, the myths explain, some crabs live on the beach, and continue their patient construction work between water and land.

Along the Brunei coast, beach crabs are very shy and will take refuge in their burrow as soon as they see something unusual, like a human being. It is an ironic feat of chance then, that in its flight from the photographer or in its search for a soft patch of wet sand to dig a burrow, this creator-crab seems to have written the word "man".

There are over 4,500 different known species of crabs throughout the world. Most crabs have five pairs of legs, which they somehow find convenient to use for walking sideways rather than forward. The frontal legs are generally shaped into claws, the back legs into swimming paddles, leaving the 3 middle pairs of legs to sweep the sand and produce patterns such as these. This particular beach crab would have a leg span of about 20 cm, but the much larger spider crabs can have a leg span of up to 3.5 m. The latter kind of crabs live in neighbouring Japan, but do not venture as far as Brunei - at least there has been no reported sighting of their tracks yet...

Beaches are a natural habitat for a surprising variety of plants and animals, providing breeding and nesting grounds for turtles, birds, and even some fish. Other animals are non-residents, but frequent visitors. For instance, the monitor lizard (Varanus salvator) who left the footprint seen on the second photo, comes looking for fish, turtle and bird eggs, and small crabs. A careful look at the footprint reveals the mark of each finger and its tip or claw. The detailed texture of the lizard's palm and limb are better seen than if we were sighting the animal itself. Also, the angle of the joint indicates that we are looking at the left front leg. The deep continuous trench to the side of the foot is the mark left by the lizard's tail.

Shells, crabs, worms, lizards, turtles, civet cats, mongoose, ....: the list of animals that leave tracks in the intertidal zone of the beach is endless. Even for the casual nature-lover, finding animal tracks in the wet sand is not difficult, and interpreting them can be fun. Although walking towards the sun at dusk offers the most spectacular colours and views, especially at low tide, early morning is the best time to look for the tracks of animals which visit the beach at night.

Caption: Both of these photographs were featured at 1996 exhibition of the Panaga Photographic Society. The "Crab art" was taken by Sylvie Delnatte on Panaga Beach, and the "Varanus pantai" by Jacqueline Henrot on Anduki Beach.

The sight of a large crocodile moving through mirror-calm water at dawn is awesome and unforgettable, and the 'Anduki croc' was predictable enough in its habits for several months in 1989 to allow such observations.

It was hard to believe that a creature of this considerable bulk could move through the water without creating so much as a ripple or bubble. Had it not been for the glistening 'knuckles' of its back, highlighted by the early morning rays, this could just have been another piece of driftwood.

Today crocodiles are seldom seen, but the muddy, brackish water at the mouth of rivers provides the ideal habitat. The Anduki lakes, with access to the open sea and a plentiful supply of fish seems to suit the crocodile very nicely. The last crocodile sighting at Anduki was in 1993. However, close by Anduki, we recently got this report; "On Friday 29th August 1997, two EDE draughtsmen were working along the Sungai Bera, behind the Refinery on the way to Anduki, close to the rubbish area to do draughting work on the existing pipeline. One of them was walking to the pipe to make a sketch and the other one was standing beside the road. Suddenly the draughtsman spotted a crocodile chasing towards him. He managed to escape by running back to the road. He described the crocodile to be 3 m in length and most likely trying to get food from the rubbish area." Even in 1997, a 4m crocodile was killed in Tasek Merimbun, and one Temburong resident narrowly escaped death when he was attacked by a crocodile during his bath in the river. Infrequent crocodile sightings have to date been reported along the Belait river (even at the KBBC boatclub).

Crocodiles have not always been scarce in Seria and, thirty or forty years ago were a very real menace to oil workers and their families. In the late 1950's large (5 m) crocodiles were seen in the drainage ditches of Panaga Camp and were thought to be responsible for the 'disappearance' of a number of pet dogs, prompting BSP to employ a professional crocodile hunter (who also happened to be the camp gardener!) to destroy them.

Crocodiles are the nearest surviving relatives of the dinosaurs. World-wide several types of crocodiles are found, but superlatives apply to the type that occurs in Brunei and elsewhere in Asia: Crocodylus porosus. This is the estuarine crocodile and it is the biggest, the most successful, the most feared and the most-hunted of all crocodiles. It can easily measure up to 6 m and sometimes more. It is found across a large area from India to southern China, in South East Asia and in Northern Australia. It is believed to be so widespread and so successful because it can swim across sea. It is feared as a man-eater but also appreciated for its hide and its flesh.

As crocodiles are cold-blooded reptiles and they have to keep their body temperature between 30 - 35°C, they must spend their time in warm waters. They swim by propulsive movements of their big, strong tail. Crocodylus porosus is at home in Asia's tropical river mouths, brackish sea inlets and coastal mangrove swamps. Sizeable specimens have been recorded swimming in the sea, in rare cases 100 km or more away from any land. Crocodiles can also move upriver and have been spotted far upstream the Belait. Juveniles especially are known to stay in side branches of main streams, during the day, usually hiding among vegetation in pools and coming out after dark. Crocodiles are probably territorial with the bigger ones being able to claim and get their choice. Crocs can be quick on their feet but they are fastest when they swim.

The usual diet of Crocodylus porosus will include terrapins, frogs, fishes, prawns, crabs, water beetles, etc. At night it may move into rice paddy fields and other marshy lands perhaps to capture large animals like monkeys or wild boars, and in very rare instances humans. With its powerful teeth, the crocodile can easily sweep such a big prey off its feet. Before attacking crocodiles are known to make a hissing sound, then grasp. Escape is rare. Death is due to severe wounds and drowning. Crocodiles have no difficulty in breathing while holding their prey. A peculiarity of crocodiles is their gaping. For no obvious reason they sometimes leave their jaw open. It is unlikely that they expect prey to just walk in, but whatever the purpose may be, it is not yet understood by scientists.

Crocodylus porosus probably breeds during the wet season. Copulation takes place in shallow water, and mangrove swamps may be chosen for the nesting site. A nest may measure up to 10 m and contain between 20 and 90 eggs. Usually no more than 30% of the eggs hatch, the rest may succumb to floods, dehydration, perdition, etc. It takes 7 nights to build a nest and the hard-shelled eggs are white, 50-95 mm in length, 35-60 mm in diameter, and weigh 50-150 g. The incubation period is 90 days. The female crocodile carries the juveniles to the water in her mouth. The juveniles measure about 30 cm. They will stay with the mother for the first months. At the end of the first year the juveniles measure about 45 cm. By the time they reach maturity they measure approx. 2 m.

The economic value of Crocodylus porosus still exists. Although decimated by habitat destruction and hunting, the crocodile population still supplies meat for certain restaurants and hides for fancy handbags, shoes, etc. Crocodile farming (like the Miri crocodile farm) is practised for tourists and for breeding endangered species. Some farms are partially financed from the sale of skins. The meat of the crocodiles killed is then sold to restaurants or fed to other crocodiles.

Traditionally encounters with crocodiles seemed reserved for villagers living along rivers. They might get the fright of their lifetime while bathing, fishing or hunting. The Kuching estuaries are known for their dangerous crocodiles, numerous fatal attacks have been reported over the last 20 years. Nowadays watersporters, kayakkers, and tourists may likewise get a big surprise, and accidents do occur.

Alan Holman, our kayak expedition leader, has seen crocodiles at several places along the Belait river. He recalls the following: "On recent trips up the Belait within the past years ('95-'97) I've had a couple of close encounters with crocs that reinforced my long held beliefs. They also brought back memories of what a professional crocodile hunter had told me in 1982. That was "If they're under 2 m